Control Pressure Regulator Update.

[DMCVegas@xxxx]

Ok, here's an update to things, and an explanation of how the CPR 
works/looks.

The case of the CPR is 3 pieces. The fuel diaphram is a small peice 
which screws into the top piece of the case. This is also where all 
of the electrical components are mounted by a single bolt. Here the 
electrical plug is held onto the case by a large "C" clip. You can 
see it by looking at the outside of the CPR.

The next metal piece contains the housing for the vaccum 
diaphram/push rod. The center has places for 2 spings that fit inside 
each other. The outer spring rests on the casing, while the inner 
spring rests on the nub of the vaccum diaphram. On top of both of 
these springs is a "cap", with a cone-shaped indentaion. The rod sits 
in the bottom of the cone, and the other end connects to the fuel 
diaphram. And the cap itself pushes against the bi-metal arm. The 
chamber that is created here is not sealed. Above is the opening that 
allows ambient air inside.

Now, on the bottom of the second peice, there is a divied area that 
takes the shape of a circle. In the center of this area is the metal 
portion of the diaphram. On the side of the area is an opening to the 
outside where one of the vaccum lines connects to (hose w/vaccum 
delay valve). A large gasket is installed here between the 2nd and 
3rd pieces. But, the gasket doesn't just go around the edges. The 
gasket runs around the round area that divides 2 chambers. This 
portion of the gasket then extends tightly around the metal portion 
of the diaphram, and thus forms the flexable membrane that makes up 
the diaphram.

The thrid peice of the CPR case has another outlet on it that 
connects to the other half of the vaccum hose. This and a matching 
circle on the botom to press against the gasket to seal the membrane 
to make the diaphram (upper vaccum chamber). The outer gasket seals 
to create the lower vaccum chamber.


The electrical I'm a bit skeptical on. What I first thought was 
solder,turn out to be where the burned wires hat gotten so hot, they 
melted and fused together! I'll try my best to explain how the 
circuit works, with what I've found on my damaged one. The hot wire 
comes in, and passes thru part of the heating element. It then goes 
out, and connects to a thermostat. Afterwhich, the next wire connects 
back into the heater (same heating element, but I'm guessing to be a 
2nd circuit within), and then leaves thru the 2nd wire on the plug. 
Now just in case there is any confusion, this is only a guesstimation 
on my part. Like I said before, the wires were so badly damaged, they 
had melted strands together to make a single single ball of metal. 
But, and interesting fact here is that the internal thermostat that 
controls the heater is adjustable! Perhaps someone had set the temp 
wrong on my CPR, and the unessisary extra time to allow the circuit 
to become energized is what overheated the wires.

I'm not going to go into how this unit works specificly. It is 
something that has been posted before, and can easily be found in the 
archives. I'm not lazy or anything like that, I'm just trying to 
avoid repatition.


My results. Upon closer inspection in the daylight, it is correct 
that the connections to the plug are spot welded. Other connections 
in the circuit are spade connectors that are crimped to wires. There 
is no solder. I was told by a friend that I can replicate a small 
spot welder if I take a flash camera, and connect wires to the leads 
for the flash bulb. He swore up and down that it can fuse penneies 
together. Honestly, I'm not quite feeling like MacGyver right now, so 
I'm going to skip this. Plus I am not 100% sure of the electrical 
routing.

But I must say that I can be hard headed like that, and will try 
things reguardless. Utilizing a 230 watt soldering gun, and some 
heavy duty electrical solder with a melting point of 460°F, I 
attempted to repair things anyway. Solder did NOT want to stick to 
anything inside! I couldn't even tin the wires! So to get wires to 
connect, I had to "booger weld" them. Amazingly I got everything 
together, and reassembled, and managed to keep things seperate, and 
away from the casing. While reinstalling the CPR, I broke the small 
hollow bolt off inside the CPR!!! I can't figure out why since it 
wasn't as tight as the larger bolt, and I was able to back the bolt 
out with one fingertip. I am only guessing this is an omen, and my 
car is firmly telling me, "NO! Don't do that!"

So a new unit it is! Tomorrow I'll go the local authorized BOSCH 
service center to see what I can do about getting a rebuilt CPR. Or 
even a repair kit. I drove over to a close BOSCH parts supplier, and 
they said that they have never heard of a reapir kit for the CPR on 
any car w/K-Jetronic. Obviusly there has to be one if a Service 
Center is able to rebuild everything. I went to CarParts.com, but 
they didn't have anything for the DeLorean, yet alone a rebult CPR 
for the Volvo (but I will note that prices for some parts are alomst 
DOUBLE what they are from DeLorean vendors). I'll check a bit deeper. 
Which if anyone knows, why is it that AutoZone, carparts.com, and 
every other person in the word will have listings for obscure cars 
like DeSotos, Studebakers, Lotus', Packards, etc.. but not 
DELOREAN!?! I've never even seen either of these cars in person, let 
alone seen anyone buying parts for them!

Anyhow, I hope this helps a bit. If anyone has any questions, let me 
know, and I'll answer them as best I can.

-Robert
vin 6585