Re: Rust Problem.

[srubano@xxxx]

Hi Robert,

For question 1: Check the front crumple tubes, the front shock 
towers, in the gas tank area, rear shock towers, right below the 
engine mounts and also the area where the Transmision is. You may 
also want to remove the rubber plugs that are located in the rear of 
the chassis on the opposite sides of the shock tower (on the sides of 
the engine one on each side). Be careful removing the plugs as they 
have a tendancy to fall in. Rust usually forms in that cavity. If 
there is any rust in there...then you are going to need very long 
screw drivers, needle nose pliers and a lot of patience to scrape all 
the old flaking epoxy out of there.

For question 2: I had my entire chassis sandblasted and I painted the 
entire thing using POR-15. You can paint over the rust but here is 
what I would do:
1. Scrape back all the epoxy surrounding the rust until you start to 
see "shiny" metal, then stop scraping. Rust can travel under the 
epoxy so it won't do any good if the rust is still under the epoxy 
when you paint it with POR-15.
2. Scrape/sand down all the loose rust.
3. POR-15 makes a product called "Metal ready". If you spray it onto 
the affected area and let it sit for 15 minutes (or whatever the 
bottle says) then hose it off, it's suppose to neutralize any rust 
left, prep any new metal exposed and leave a zinc primer/coating on 
the metal so that the POR-15 will adhere to it a lot better.
4. Paint the POR-15 on with a brush, try not to thin it out. It will 
be very watery and a small can goes a long way. Make sure you pour 
out only a little at a time into a disposable container and use it 
from that disposable container, seal the lid on the can ASAP. The 
stuff dries with moisture/humidity so if you paint your chassis by 
dipping the brush into the can it comes in and leaving the top off 
too long, it will begin to harden. MAKE SURE you WEAR gloves and if 
it's not to hot wear long sleeves! If it gets on your skin and you 
don't wash it off ASAP, you will be wearing it for a few days. Also 
paint in a well ventilated area and avoid breathing in the fumes. Use 
disposable brushes, you don't want the hassle of washing out the 
brushes, just throw them away. This stuff dries rock hard but it 
remains very flexible. Brush it in thin coats, don't go over the same 
area you just painted twice and apply at least 3 coats (wait for it 
to dry to a tacky finish before applying the next coat). If you are 
going to use the black POR-15, then you will want to top coat it with 
some other paint. They say that the black is UV light sensitive and 
turns a dull finish...it dosen't affect the paint itself just the 
finish. If you use the Grey, then you won't have to top coat it. You 
can get more info from www.por15.com or you can send me an email and 
I'll try to help you out as best as I can.


> 1. Where else should I start looking for rust? (when I get the 
> chance, I'll probably remove the access panel to the gas tank to 
have 
> a look around there).
> 
> 2. How difficult is it to work with POR-15? (are there any tips out 
> there that any one can give me?)
> 
> 3. What exactly is this zinc stuff? I know that the DML is host to 
> many owners that come from all professions, so I didn't know if 
> someone out there might know not only what this stuff is, but what 
it 
> can do. Since it was considered hazardous, could the epoxy 
> undercoating be compromised (called the news station, and they were 
> no help).
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585