Re: [DML] Re: AC and fanzilla question

["Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxx>]

I like the idea of staging the fans at different temperatures. If one fan
will keep the coolant at the proper temperature, then there is no reason to
run the second fan.

Which method is better, Zilla or Hervey? I don't know but a little
competition has never hurt anyone.

Who knows, maybe we start seeing some other improved products for our cars.

Scott Mueller
DOA/DMCNEWS
002981
----- Original Message -----
From: <dherv10@xxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 11:06 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: AC and fanzilla question


As an engineer you then know
> the difference in an inductive load relay and a resistive one. All
> the relay's in the De Lorean are resistive load and are prone to
> fail. I don't mind telling folks that I'm using a inductive load
> relay made especially for fan applications, it's not just heavy duty.
> The fan inrush current is around 60Amps and that is what this relay
> is made for. As far as open frame and being a hazzard. If that was
> the case then the humidity your talking about will not be stopped by
> a snap on plastic or metal case. That why I didn't cover it. I won't
> air flow to keep it dry as possible. Enclosed relays will hold the
> moisture longer and will corrode faster. Pull out your RPM relay and
> look at the contacts. Clean them while you have it out. Moisture and
> underated contacts is why a lot of fuel pumps fail. As far as exposed
> contacts. Look at the circuit breakers for the door lock. Terminals
> facing straight up for someone to short out along with the other fan
> circuit breakers.
> I know that Bob has put lots of time in engineering the Zilla
> products and I know they are good because they are sold a lot and
> have a proven track record and he should be paid back for that
> engineering if you can afford it. But just because he is using a
> logic approach doesn't make the electro mechanical approach an
> inferior product. As simple as my product is and the way it's wired,
> I have no more low voltage problems and drop outs. We have some
> differences + and -. but it works and it's guaranteed.
> As you know that the water in the radiator goes from one side to the
> other before going out. In a lot of colder climates one can get by
> with less air flow. That's why people put cardboard in front of the
> radiator to slow down air flow to heat the car up or just use one
> fan. In Texas, we need all the air flow we can get in hot climate,
> but in 40 and 50 degree weather, one fans works great to let the
> water heat up faster. The coolant switch turns the fan on and only
> one fan to draw current instead of two when two is not needed. I
> drive mine like this in colder weather. Yes: it may go against the
> grain of a lot of people, but it works.
> I don't mind constructive criticism, and sometimes I screw up just
> like others that try to help. But it seems that a lot of De Lorean
> owners have only seen one way to approach problems with the cars and
> have been kept in the dark. I think I have opened a lot of eyes to
> just as good but less expensive ways.
> Ask me about the current relief I have given the main relay that also
> controls the Lambda unit. I have that low voltage problem solved.
> The fuel pumb burning up the, I think #7 fuse, I have that fixed
> also. All with out logic and very inexpensive.
> If I'm out of line I know the group will put me back on track.
> I like my De Lorean's and will continue to address problems the only
> way I know how. Simple. Thanks for your opinion's, I think yours and
> others are always welcome. I think folks learn from these exchanges
> and look forward to them. I also know when to check it to the logic
> engineers.
> John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com