Re: Storage

[rbrogren@xxxx]

I think that it can safely be said for all of us that have posted on this 
subject that we agree that moisture is bad, regardless of if it is inside the 
engine, the fuel or the brake system. Or anyplace else for that matter!
If we differ, it is not to any extent that will cause catastrophic problems 
if we do it one way or another. 

I got a chuckle out of Steve Rubano's very good an detailed instructions on 
cylinder wall protection, using Marvel Mystery oil, etc. 
For the uninitiated, Marvel Mystery Oil has been around for many years and 
has polarized just about everybody into two categories; those who swear by it 
and those that think it is "snake oil"! Most, if not all, engine manufacurers 
prohibit its use in their engines (typical for warranty purposes), extensive 
tests has been performed by reputable independent testing outfits who in 
essence claim that there is nothing mystic, new or exotic in its composition 
but most of a couple of generations of mechanics and other engine experts 
swear by it. I am a convert after personally having experienced a couple of 
remarkable improvements following its use!

Anybody that has taken apart a carelessly maintained engine and seen all the 
gunk in the oil pan, valve train, etc. versus an engine that has received 
recommended (or better) oil change procedures will certainly agree that there 
is a significant difference! 

My first posting here referred to problems that I had with my late 70's Volvo 
with the B28F engine. The owners manual recommended oil changes at 5000 mile 
intervals. The US Volvo experts stated in no uncertain terms that under no 
circumstances should the oil and filter be changed at less then 3000 miles! 
Granted, there was a design problem (oil galleys and oil pump capacity) that 
was fixed prior to the D engines, but the fact remains that the engines last 
much longer if the oil was changed more frequently. (I talked to my present 
Volvo mechanic last week and he confirmed that that engine became almost 
bulletproof after the 1980 design change.)

One caveat on "occational running while in storage": Make sure you run the 
engine until the oil temperature is hot! This will boil off any moisture that 
has been suspended in the oil and vent it out through the PCV system. (I 
know, no oil temp gauge in the D, just run it until coolant temp is normal 
and then a bit longer.) Just running the engine for a couple of minutes will 
not do it. 

I do use a fuel stabilizer in a full tank of gas for storage (pour it in 
while you fill up the tank before storage), but I have never drained/refilled 
the tank after storage and never noticed any problems with using the 
"stabilized" tank in a car, airplane or lawnmover engine. (Maybe I should 
read the instructions!)

In summary: Keep moisture out and change oil more often than not.
Roger Brogren
VIN 1074


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