Fuel Pump Boot (was: Re: [DML] DELOREAN SAFETY).

["Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

RTV will not stand up to gasoline vapors for long. There's a reason 
that the design, as clunky as it is, is the way it is. The idea is to 
keep water from pooling in the boot which will eventually find it's 
way into the tank, not to mention rusting the top of the pump. Note 
that this pump design is mounted under the car in other applications, 
so the pump itself is basically waterproof. It's just not intended to 
be **under** water i.e. under a pump boot-full. 

Something to consider on this topic though, when the fuel pump and 
boot is properly installed, and the trunk cover panel is in place, 
there is actually quite a bit of pressure from the panel on the boot 
that keeps in in place. If you want to do something beneficial ADD 
some of that self-adhesive insulation to the bottom of the cover 
plate to increase the pressure. But keep an eye on it for 
deterioration over time. 

I still think (this has been done, but not by me) the best solution 
is to remote the pump outside of the tank. It's a big effort and 
presents more issues, such as "where?" and closing off the big hole 
in the tank. 

Dave S.

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas@xxxx> 
wrote:
> The splash guard will keep water that drains down off of your
> electrical connections. But with the cap off, you then leave the 
wires
> exposed to any, and all water that gets sprayed up by your front
> tires. Trust me on this one. I left the fuel pump access panel off 
one
> time, and had to drive thru a thunder storm on the way home. My 
trunk
> was a mess, with grimey water sprayed EVERYWHERE inside the trunk.
> 
> If you want the extra protection, I'd leave the cap on, but cut the
> edges off. Then simply glue it to the boot using RTV sealant. That
> way, you'll keep water from entering the tank, incase the boot is
> breached. And the wires & fuel pump don't corrode from water 
standing
> in the boot. 




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