[DML] Re: Rebuilding a Blown Motor. (continued)

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Buy this manual off eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7911807547
Will walk you through PRV tear down all the way to the bare block and
back out again. Uses actual photographs, not line drawings (except for
the CIS section). Some of the measurements are B27 specific, but
assemblies are identical to B28, as are torque values.

Rich Acuti replaced a head gasket in his condo parking lot, so it can
be done. Contact him direct: racuti1(at)delorean.com.

Compression test the side of the engine without cross threaded spark
plugs. If it's OK, you know where the problem is. Can remove the
damaged head and easily helicoil the bad plugs off the car.

This would also be an excellent time to replace the exhaust studs with
Rob Grady's stainless ones, or at least put some stainless nuts on the
carbon studs (Fastenal sells them: Part #MN2570000A20000).

Darren Bowker (Martin Gutkowski's buddy) may be able to translate your
engine codes. Contact me off List for his address
(brobertson(at)carolina.net).

Bill Robertson
#5939
 
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas@xxxx> wrote:
> Negative. I have yet to perform a compression test on the engine yet.
> Something that I am loathing. Not because it's difficult, but because
> It's gonna be a pain with 3 cylinders that have cross-threaded
> sparkplugs.
> 
> It's interesting to hear about those Volvo head gaskets, vs. Renault.
> I've suspected for some time now that the engine blew it's headgaskets
> at some point in the past. The missing exhaust studs from the heads,
> and the sloppy, leaky rocker cover gaskets. After comparing this to
> another DeLorean engine, I've discovered that I have different engine
> codes. For those interested, here they are (I hope yahoo doesn't f*x0r
> the ASCII here).
> 
> Engine Plate/ID Tag:
> ___________
> |154    740|
> |          |
> |000006287 |
> ------------
> 
> And here is the info stamped into the LH head. Note: if it appears
> between 2 *'s, that means it was stamped upside down. And the letter
> "P" is within a circle.
> 
> 9 8 81	*0766*103121 P*38* 8D
> 
> What's most interesting about this is the serial # on the ID tag. The
> build # is lower than my VIN. If it were higher, I coudl definetly
> understand that. But this just seems fishy... If anyone has access to
> engine codes, it would be great to confirm this.
> 
> I'm not really afraid to tearing into the motor. Granted though, I've
> never torn an engine apart before. But having a Chrysler Service
> Manual written on how to service/overhaul the PRV, has really
> bolstered my confidence. Add to the fact that it's written in English,
> points out certain problem areas, and has lots of clean, legible
> pictures! :) But space is just limted to do the job. Classic car owner
> + apartment dweller are not the idea combination for situations such
> as this.
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"




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