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There are 7 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Radiator question
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Periodic winter startup
From: "Don Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Radiator question
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Antenna Question
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. RE: Tow Package
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. The History Channel
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Antenna Question
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 06:00:11 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Radiator question
I removed my radiator the other day and took a good look at it. Now I
know that the OEM ones had Plastic holding tanks BUT mine, for some
strange reason, has a BRASS tank (and soldered on not clamped) on the
right (passenger side) and on the left (drivers) is plastic (clamped
on). My question is this: Do/did the OEM's have plastic tanks on both
sides of the radiator or a brass/plastic set up like mine? If both
tanks are plastic then I think a previous owner had it rebuilt and
they installed a Brass tank on one side? Very strange. Was just
curious on this one.
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 01:14:10 -0800
From: "Don Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Periodic winter startup
You are quite right that there are other considerations beyond just fully
cooking out the water produced from combustion, and much has been said of
late on this post addressing those issues. About the only thing I might
add
is that there are several detail techniques that can be done when
performing
maintenance. In general oils or greases that are paraffin based will coat
and preserve better than other oils. The waxy paraffin does not evaporate
as easily over time. Also I have had very good experience with various
silicone greases and oils for sealing and coating parts. I like this
especially for fasteners and rubber products thruout the undercarriage.
Also "cold galvanizing compound" is great for exposed steel, such as the
frame. It is a paint that has a very high percentage of powered zinc
metal
formulated in and was originally developed by the Navy for underwater spot
repair. Properly used it is better than hot dip galvanizing, it is
gray/silver and comes in a spray can. The devil is in the details and a
carefully done repair with additional thought put into sealing/coating
parts
for long term corrosion protection really pays off.
Thanks for your thoughts,
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: "Watkins Family" <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "DMC News list" <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 6:32 AM
Subject: [DML] Periodic winter startup
> <Don Ekhoff wrote:
> <Hope this experience is helpful. I just cringe when I hear of people
> <starting their cars every week as a way of keeping them preserved.
>
> Don,
>
> It sounds from your post that you are only opposed a start up without
> reaching operating temp. So can one assume that you are more in favor
> of a periodic start-up *only* if the car reaches a good hot running
> status? A simple start up and run for a few minutes is certaintly not
> a good idea, I think everyone would agree to that. However, the
> question for the 4-6 month storage crowd is: Is starting the car and
> letting it run for at least 1 full hour (or more) harmful or hurtful to
> the car? If the car runs long enough for the cooling fans to activate
> then the system is doing the same thing when you drive it during the
> summer. Albiet the car's clutch,brake and transmission system are still
> not being used.
>
> Look forward to a response
>
> Thanks
> Tom #005732 MT
>
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 10:40:36 -0600
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Radiator question
I'd guess that the previous owner had it fixed. The OE radiators had
plastic
tanks on both sides. If you buy an OEM from a DMC vendor, it will still
have
plastic. tanks. They all sell replacements that are all brass, with extra
rows of cooling too.
The plastic tanks fail in two ways. Either a hose connection breaks off
(typically the bleeder on the passenger side), or they start leaking at
the
compression fitting where the plastic is joined to the brass.
The original one in my case lasted 18 years (good enough for me), and
you'l
notice that almost every car made in the past 15 years uses plastic tanks.
I
went with the OEM.
Other pros& cons:
- - The OEMs fit perfectly and cost less (although the price WAS reduced
recently to undercut the aftermarket units)
- - The aftermarket ones can be made with increased cooling capacity, and
many people feel that the brass tanks will ultimately last longer. I have
heard of problems with fit (no first-hand experience).
The most important thing you can do to make the radiator last is to change
the coolant at least every two years.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Radiator question
>
> I removed my radiator the other day and took a good look at it. Now I
> know that the OEM ones had Plastic holding tanks BUT mine, for some
> strange reason, has a BRASS tank (and soldered on not clamped) on the
> right (passenger side) and on the left (drivers) is plastic (clamped
> on). My question is this: Do/did the OEM's have plastic tanks on both
> sides of the radiator or a brass/plastic set up like mine? ?
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 12:24:06 -0500
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Antenna Question
I've noticed that recently my antenna is not going all the way down
after I turn off the radio. I doesn't happen all the time however. It
sticks up just a little past the rear glass duct about an inch or two.
If I turn onthe radio and then shut it off again it will then retract
all the way down into the duct space like it should. Is this a early
sign of antenna failure?
Tom
vin #005732 MT
Visit my updated DMC site at http://www.geocities.com/outatime81/
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 12:02:32 -0800
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Tow Package
> Mike asked:
> A while back someone had mentioned that they had either bought a tow
> hitch and modified it or had one custom made for their DeLorean.
> Has anyone on this list done this to their DeLorean to tow a class 1
> trailer?
Arnie Brandon, owner of "The One and Only DeLorean Trailer"
http://pndc.org/gallery.htm,
has a light-weight hitch that bolts on without any drilling or welding.
It
uses existing holes and attachment points. Some other DeLorean owners
have
obtained measurements, but, I haven't heard of anyone actually making a
duplicate. Sounds like a good project for one of our ambitious
fabricators
out there. Arnie doesn't have email access right now, but I'm sure he
could
answer additional questions in a few days. Arnie(at)PNDC.org
Additional photos are available at http://IN2TIME.com, where you can also
get a Free DeLorean Timepiece.
For all of the DeLorean Site Webmasters out there, check out the new
photo-realistic stainless steel background used on http://IN2TIME.com and
http://PNDC.org. You are welcome to use this on you own DeLorean Sites.
It
is a big improvement over the backgrounds that I and many others had been
using.
Gary Hull
VIN 5612
Gary(at)XyNexT.com
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 23:11:27 -0000
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: The History Channel
UK readers.
Tomorrow, Sat. 20.30hrs on the History Channel, "Histories Greatest
Blunders", The DeLorean...well worth recording/watching. Repeated Sunday
14.30 hrs.
Chris P DOC uk vins 5638/12176
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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 01:34:53 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Antenna Question
The best thing to do right away would be to completly clean the mast
several times with a cleaner-lubricant like WD-40. Operate the
antennae several times cleaning it each time. If that does not help
then you are correct that it will fail soon. If you are more ambitious
you could disassemble the mast and clean the drive cable also. The
motor stops when it hits a resistance thinking it is fully up or down.
If the mast asbly is tight it is fooled into thinking it has hit the
end. Usually the drive cable breaks. This is one of the little things
that should be cleaned and lubricated at every service like the door
hinges, hood and engine latches etc. Although not covered in detail
any exceptional service center knows the value of doing these little
things above and beyond what the typical service interval calls for.
In many cases the service interval must be reinterpetated because
mileage by itself is no longer a primary factor in deciding what and
when to do many service tasks. This is why if at all possible you
should either bring your car in to a Delorean center or at least call
for expert advice on how to care for your car and what to order from
them. They have seen cars at all levels of care and know just what to
do. They may even have the service history of your car! Watching them
care for your car will be the best investment you can make and if you
are mechanically inclined and take notes you will learn how to do many
things yourself. At the very least you will build a relationship with
the vender of your choice and will trust them.They can point out
things you wouldn't even be aware of. Another good way is to go to a
tech session or some other event where a Delorean vender is
participating and ask questions, most will be very candid and answer
any reasonable questions.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxx> wrote:
> I've noticed that recently my antenna is not going all the way down
> after I turn off the radio. I doesn't happen all the time however.
It
> sticks up just a little past the rear glass duct about an inch or
two.
> If I turn onthe radio and then shut it off again it will then
retract
> all the way down into the duct space like it should. Is this a
early
> sign of antenna failure?
>
> Tom
> vin #005732 MT
>
> Visit my updated DMC site at http://www.geocities.com/outatime81/
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