[DML] Digest Number 1834
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[DML] Digest Number 1834
- From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: 14 Jan 2004 02:18:53 -0000
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Brakes - Why You Should Do Preventative Maintenance
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
2. Re: Digest Number 1831
From: Paul Gress <pgress@xxxxxx>
3. Re: DeLorean speedometers: A new approach
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
4. DeLorean Wanted For Hire In SW England
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Cannot remove the front panel
From: ttanaka504@xxxxxxx
6. RockerArm
From: ttanaka504@xxxxxxx
7. Re: Collector's Car loan
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: DMCH headlight upgrade
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. RE: Re: Brakes - Why You Should Do Preventative Maintenance
From: "Video Bob" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Front sway bar orientation
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: DeLorean speedometers: A new approach
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Swaying
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Re: DeLorean speedometers: A new approach
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Swaying
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. RE: Re: Swaying
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Re: Collector's Car loan
From: "Brian McCool" <bjmccool@xxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Frozen then broken
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95@xxxxxxxxx>
18. Re:Collector's Car loan
From: Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins@xxxxxxx>
19. Re: Re:Collector's Car loan
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
20. Re:Collector's Car loan
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1@xxxxxxx>
21. Re: Brakes - Why You Should Do Preventative Maintenance
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: Front sway bar orientation
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
23. Re: Re: DeLorean speedometers: A new approach
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. RE: Re: DeLorean speedometers: A new approach
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean@xxxxxxx>
25. Re: Front sway bar orientation
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 05:06:25 -0000
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Brakes - Why You Should Do Preventative Maintenance
Rich - This brings to mind a theory that I have heard, and fully
agree with, about this phenomenon where the master cylinder goes bad
shortly after a flush and bleed job. For virtually the entire
service life of the brake master cylinder, it goes through about
half of it's available stroke. At the halfway point, the pedal
gets "hard" when the pads contact the rotors and push back on the
hydraulics. Over the course of time, the rubber cups in the master
cylinder wear a little away from the cylinder bore, and create a
slight ridge at the end of the normal stroke. Then, when an owner
decides to do the right thing, and flush the system, the normal
method is to "pump and hold" for the flush and bleed process. This
runs the piston inside of the cylinder through the entire stroke,
and over the ridge half way down the bore. That is where the rubber
cups get damaged, and begin to leak soon afterward. The solution to
all of this is to use one of the pressure bleeders to flush and
bleed the entire system without running the master through an
unusually long stroke by going through the "pump and hold". I plan
to carry the pressure bleeders soon, at DPNW. The other vendors do
the same thing, and I would highly recommend that every serious
DeLorean owner invest in one of them.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248 (Winged1)
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxx> wrote:
> Keep in mind if you do replace brake fluid that has not been
replaced
> for a long time, you may end up having to change most if not all
the
> system pieces within a few months since the older parts become the
> weak link in the system and tend to leak with new fluid installed.
> An example is changing a clutch slave and not the clutch master,
even
> though the parts are the same age and the master may seem ok now.
> Almost every time, the master starts to leak the new fluid within
a few
> hundred to a few thousand miles, almost like clock-work.
>
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 02:30:40 -0500
From: Paul Gress <pgress@xxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1831
If I remember correctly, they are Kent Wheels.
Paul
Vin # 10193
On 12 Jan 2004 09:56:14 -0000, <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 18:24:56 -0000
> From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113@xxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Permacast wheels?
>
> I took my car out for some exercise today here in NYC, drove to a
> local diner and as soon as i parked a gentleman approached the car
> and asked if those were the original wheels on the car (which they
> are) he told me they were made by a company called Permacast and he
> was a distributor for them. Are any of the more senior members of
> the list able to confirm this? Just thought I'd try to contribute to
> the list.....And yes the Delorean attracted about 12 admirers while
> I was outside.
>
>
> Harry Dounis
> VIN# 2696
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 05:16:49 -0000
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DeLorean speedometers: A new approach
Nick - I have an aftermarket cruise control in Winged1. It uses a
series of magnets attached in a band around one of the half-shafts,
along with a sensor. I used a strip of steel bar, bent into an "L"
shape. One end is bolted to an available threaded hole in the side
of the transmission case, and the other holds the sensor about 1/8
inches away from the magnet band. Works very well. The same method
could be used for any similar device. This brings to mind the
obvious question ... the cruise control uses a signal to maintain a
preset speed. Why can't you use that signal for a electro-
mechanical resolver input to drive the stock speedo? Martin G.? If
anybody can dream something up, it's you!
Toby Peterson VIN 2248 (Winged1)
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Nick Kemp" <nkemp@xxxx> wrote:
> As a backup, I've pondered adding a bicycle speedometer. The
question is
> not so much where to mount the magnet but how to mount the sensor.
>
> Just a thought. Any input?
>
> Nick
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 21:07:47 -0800
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean Wanted For Hire In SW England
If you are interested in providing your (BTTF or Stock) DeLorean to be
"driven away" from a wedding in Devon England next April, please reply and I
will provide the contact information.
Gary Hull
Specialty(at)IN2TIME.com
IN2TIME
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 02:42:45 EST
From: ttanaka504@xxxxxxx
Subject: Cannot remove the front panel
Hello list
I am middle of removing my Delorean's console.
and I am facing a problem...When I accessed to front panel
(Part number 110325 http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewDir.asp?PageID=99&;
PageCat=8%2DFrame+and+Body)
, it stocks in front part and I cannot pull out.
I read my trusty Workshop manual Body - Interior P:03:03 Console section
and watch great HowTo webpage,
http://retroserver.noip.com/delorean/centerconsole.html
I did until removal 3 and
My manual wrote down 4 "remove 2 screws securing
transmission shift level panel to console"I did,
"Raise panel and remove interior lamps rheostat ad digital clock"
I could not reach them, so I didn't remove two of them,
"Remove panel." I can raise a panel and try to pull it straight out. However,
my panel
move little and hold AC panel side of end.
So please anyone help me to remove the panel, by the way My D is manual
shift.
Any advice and help I appreciate your kindness
Blacknight
VIN:006375
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 03:22:31 EST
From: ttanaka504@xxxxxxx
Subject: RockerArm
Hello List
When I was looking Japanese VOLVO760GLE webpage, I found out
that B280 engine used different rocker arms.
http://csx.jp/~sagotetsu/CAR/headr1.jpg
Also I saw a Japanese webpage I found same rocker arms in ALPINE V6 TURBO
engine (you know it is B280)
http://teragta2.hp.infoseek.co.jp/member/terado/working/
Then I confuse, I have American Volvo 760(B280) Heads and I opened them
to check rocker arms, Those rocker arm are same as Delorean's B28.
Them I check pictures in parts webpage
http://www.drivewire.com/OEMResult/CTDEngine_Mechanical~CTC28~SCDRocker_Arm_Ki
t~SCC1542.html
Ya, B280 and B28 are using same parts.
Now come my questions,
Does anybody know those
Are Japanese/EU B280 engine
and American B280 different?
Can we use this rockerarms in our Delorean?
How about Dodge Monaco and Eagle Premier's PRV engine?
Internal parts different?
Because EU Volvo PRV engine always has better HP.
http://www.vectorbd.com/users/jpl/v6.html
I guess variant PRV engines are quiet different internally.
I know B280 has bigger In/Ex valves than B28.
I like to know more about PRV engines and will build high performance engine.
Thank you very much for reading
Blacknight
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 05:44:22 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Collector's Car loan
None of your replies mentioned a home equity line as a financing
option. If you have enough equity in your house, that should
definitely yield the lowest interest rate (which is also tax
deductible). Note that the lending institution makes no review of any
purchases from an equity line.
If your mortgage balance is low enough you may even be able to use the
equity line to pay it off as well!
Competition among lenders used to be fierce, leading to some
tremendous equity line incentives. Mine is prime plus zero, opened
with no closing costs. That was several years ago so I do not know if
the market is still as lucrative.
Home equity is one of the "laziest" investments most Americans make.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Scooby <chinatown_film@xxxx> wrote:
> Having recently joined a credit union, I decided to contact them
regarding a loan for a DeLorean having read here that a lot of people
have had luck going through credit unions. This is their reply:
>
> "This is in response to your e-mail concerning a loan on a 1983
collectable car. First you would need to obtain a written appraisal
for the car. This loan would be considered a signature loan . Loan
terms would be for 48 months with a 11.99% to 18% interest rate.Thank
you, Chartway e-Banking"
>
> Is this normal practice having a written appraisal / interest rate
high in your experience?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Messenger - Communicate instantly..."Ping" your friends
today! Download Messenger Now
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 05:24:41 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMCH headlight upgrade
The other weak link is the headlight master switch itself. It is not
fuse protected (fuses 14 and 15 come AFTER the switch), yet it
contains a load device (the internal bulb). This bulb is doubly troubling:
-Heat from it can slowly melt the switch internals
-If that happens, an unprotected short can set the car on fire
This happened to me -- see the pic in #5939's photo album. It is very
troubling to see fire under the plastic dash of one's plastic car.
Note also that full side and tail light amperage passes through the
master switch (only high and low beams are on relays). I do not know
how much additional stress these lights put on the switch, but they
can't be healthy given its rather cheap construction.
My entire external light circuit has since been redesigned, including
addition of a relay for side and tail lights (load through the switch
now is 30 milliamps). For additional security internal bulbs for it
and the hazard switch are removed, relying instead on halos of light
around them from the A/C panel bulbs.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Video Bob" <videobob@xxxx> wrote:
> The previous owner of my car had installed the high output Xenon lights.
> They look like many other modern lights.
> They are bright white.
> One night, I pressed the headlight button and my headlights would
not come
> on?
> I checked my fuses...
> To my surprise the headlight fuse had melted into a mush.
> These new lights were much more powerfull the older lights.
>
> I would suggest replacing your entire fuse block reguardless of what
> upgrades you make.
> It is just a poor design made with thin metal parts and WILL
eventually melt
> down.
> Might as well nip in the bud before your car burns down to the ground.
>
> I haven't done it yet, but I am working on it.
> I suppose I will simply go a to a good car-auto-electrics place any
a pro to
> do it.
> -VB
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 03:09:20 -0600
From: "Video Bob" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Brakes - Why You Should Do Preventative Maintenance
You are correct about the preventative maintenance Rich....
I guess the point of my letter was that:
Most of us newbies who have bought cars recently don't know the complete
history.
Most of these cars have been kept and stored by the original owners with
very moderate driving.
My car was well kept and driven about 1000 miles per year.
It looks perfect, and runs great.
According to John Hervey, (who of course is trying to sell me something) has
so far
always been right about what he tells me.
I listen to his pitches with the typical skepticism that any consumer would,
but so far
he is always dead on the money.
He told me that everyone does the same type of thing, they think they can
just replace
the pads or do a rebuild kit... but every set of core calipers he gets back
have rust inside,
and are loaded with gunk.
I think the percentage of people who actually do a brake flush at all ever
is very small.
I have owned my Taurus for 6 years, with 80K miles, and I don't think I have
ever even
added any fluid to it! They are fine. (for now).
My point of the letter is, if you are a new owner of the car, or the
original...
and the calipers have never been rebuilt or replaced then to plan on it.
It only costs less than $200 for all new rebuilt calipers (from John anyway)
and they
are easy to change out.
Unless you have all the tools needed to do a complete rebuild where you can
use a Dremmel
to remove the inside surface rust, and a bead blaster to clean all the
outside rust...
that is if you can get the piston out of the caliper in the first place!
For $89 each, there is no way I would go through all that crap.
It is better to just buy them!
John tells me that I should also plan to replace the rubber lines with
stainless steel braided
lines because the summer heat will make the rubber lines expand and cause
the brakes to be mushy. ..... and the master cylinder will eventually go out
too and to plan to replace it.
There are certain things I have learned about these cars.
If you want to have one as a reliable daily driver, you must replace the
entire brake system,
the cooling system and most of the electrical system.
If you just do it all at once you wouldn't even need this list to help you
with all these
goofy problems one after the other.
...that is of course if you can afford it!
These are big boys toys after all.
You have to pay to play.
- Videobob
VIN# 5278
_________________________________________________________________
Find high-speed ?net deals ? comparison-shop your local providers here.
https://broadband.msn.com
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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 12:46:41 -0000
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Front sway bar orientation
During some brake work I have been doing recently I noticed the
front sway bar had a "worn spot" on it where the front tire may have
been rubbing against it. I am wondering if the previous
owner/mechanic had removed the bar and reinstalled it upside down.
Rob Grady found this on Brett Bonte's car at the Mid-Atlantic spring
social last year.
Could someone please confirm for me the proper orientation for the
bar (angle down then up into the arm or up then down?)Or a picture
would be great.
Thanks,
Stephen
Vin 3601
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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 13:00:07 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean speedometers: A new approach
Money wasn't really the issue. I just want a speedometer that I don't
have to lube every month (who does that to an ordinary car?).
Heck, we've just had two guys who DO regularly maintain their angle
drive have failures due to the extreme cold. Harold M. is pretty
regular about his maintenance from what I've read.
That said, I'm only hearing great things about DMCH's new angle drive
so I'll just KISS and buy one of those.
Thanks for all the input.
Rich A.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxx> wrote:
> If you are trying to save the $60-120 for an angle drive you won't
> come out ahead. If the angle drive is maintained properly (BIG if)
> they actually hold up quite well.
>
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 13:17:51 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Swaying
Toby/Dave T,
I thank you for pointing out all of the inspection points.
I have:
new, BF Goodrich Radial T/A's, just mounted and balanced a few months
ago. The car doesn't pull one way or the other. The tires have a nice
even wear pattern. I have checked the air pressure, especially in
light of the drastic temperature changes here.
The crumple tube damage was limited to rust on the bottom center. The
sway bar/mounting area was never touched. The reinforcement upgrade
was installed before I bought the car. I just had new metal put in
the center. We didn't really have to align anything. The steering
rack was slipping in the bushings due to a piece on the crumple tube
missing. It was replaced, anchoring the steering rack.
I am fortunate to have a shop nearby with an alignment machine that
has DeLorean specs programed into it. Even though it's not pulling, I
think I'll replace the tie-rod ends and have the whole thing aligned.
I'm having difficulty explaining exactly what the car does. Let's put
it this way: It no longer steers squirrely. It's more like...once in
a while, when you hit a shallow dip in the highway as the car is at
the high point in the bounce (weightless?), the rear feels like it's
making some minor side-to-side movement. When the car settles, all is
well. I must be making some headway. It's not as bad as it was for
sure.
Rich A.
#5335
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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 07:38:49 -0800
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean speedometers: A new approach
. I don't think any cars currently produced use cable driven speedometers
any more. The problem with adapting electronic speedos to the DeLorean is
that the digital odometer does it's calculations from a different, tamper
proof, source than the speedometer itself. You can remove the proper fuse in
a newer car and the speedometer will quit working but the odometer keeps
ticking. I'd guess it's interfaced with the cars computer and works via
engine RPM's.
Bruce Benson
> If you are doing this for the "something cool/different" factor,
> here's another idea. The electronic speedo gauge in a late 80-s 3-
> series BMW is about the same size as the DMCs, and the pickup is
> mounted in the bottom of the differential. No clue how much of this
> is interfaced via the vehicle's computer, but in an 80s car it should
> not be too bad. Nice thing is that they are 6-digit odometers too.
> Dave S
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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 15:16:13 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Swaying
> I'm having difficulty explaining exactly what the car does. Let's
put
> it this way: It no longer steers squirrely. It's more like...once
in
> a while, when you hit a shallow dip in the highway as the car is at
> the high point in the bounce (weightless?), the rear feels like
it's
> making some minor side-to-side movement. When the car settles, all
is
> well. I must be making some headway. It's not as bad as it was for
> sure.
>
> Rich A.
> #5335
Hi Rich.
Your car is exhibiting "bump steer". You can look it up on the
internet. It's caused by a change in direction that the wheels point
as the wheel moves up or down through it's suspension travel, or an
assymetry in the frame or suspension, or other things. It could be
as simple as a bad alignment (just because the car doesn't pull to
one side or the other doesn't mean it's right) or as subtle as a
bent frame which is putting more weight on some wheels than others.
Since it's not a common complaint to Delorean owners in general, it's
a good guess there's something wrong with your alignment.
It can be very difficult to diagnose and eradicate. I had to do it
on my car, and it took about 10 iterations.
One thing to look for right off is rear toe out. If your alignment
guy accidentally pointed the wheels outwards too much, it doesn't
take much, the stability of the suspension is decreased. You might
consider asking your alignment person what alignment specifications
were used on your car.
Good luck.
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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 09:42:19 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Swaying
When I recommissioned my car in 1994, The car would float all over the road
when driving +50 mph and hit a small bump in the road.
It turned out that the original shocks were shot. I replaced the shocks and
all was well.
How are your shocks?
Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA
-----Original Message-----
From: cruznmd [mailto:racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 7:18 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Swaying
Toby/Dave T,
I thank you for pointing out all of the inspection points.
I have:
new, BF Goodrich Radial T/A's, just mounted and balanced a few months
ago. The car doesn't pull one way or the other. The tires have a nice
even wear pattern. I have checked the air pressure, especially in
light of the drastic temperature changes here.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 09:18:06 -0600
From: "Brian McCool" <bjmccool@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Collector's Car loan
All of these posts are assuming that someone
A. Has a home with equity in it.
B. Has perfect credit.
C. Has a fairly long credit history.
Some would be owners on the list are having to hurdle all 3 of these points
because of their age or possibly lack of credit history.
----- Original Message -----
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 11:44 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Collector's Car loan
> None of your replies mentioned a home equity line as a financing
> option. If you have enough equity in your house, that should
> definitely yield the lowest interest rate (which is also tax
> deductible). Note that the lending institution makes no review of any
> purchases from an equity line.
>
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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 15:54:16 -0000
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Frozen then broken
Dear List,
Over the freeze my throttle cable became frozen but I now have it
back up and working. But the lower speedo cable froze and I now have
a busted angle drive. I haven't removed it yet but when I took off
the wheel and the plastic piece a small part of the angle drive cable
came off.
Now I have a problem. Is there anyone who can rebuild this part of
the angle drive and or should I just buy a new one to replace it. It
is a N.O.S. part that I bought last year and don't say I didn't
grease the thing. Because I did it every oil change.
Thanks again for the help,
Kramer
~10610
P.S.
If anyone has gotten theirs rebuilt. How much did it cost and how
long did it take?
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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 10:23:10 -0600
From: Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:Collector's Car loan
Scoob:
My credit union also did me the same discourtesy, stating that due to
the age of the vehicle, they couldn't offer me a used car loan at 5.9%
interest -- only a "major purchase loan" at 12%. The only good thing is
they would use the highest amount given in the NADA Blue Book, and
they'll be able to lend it for a longer period of time. (My CU allows 48
months on a used car loan under $20k, no ifs ands or buts.)
You might find a company that deals in classic autos more useful. I'm
sure somebody out there on the DML has a suggestion. As for me, I'm
still looking.
Farrar
> Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 14:47:26 +0000 (GMT)
> From: Scooby <chinatown_film@xxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Collector's Car loan
>
> Having recently joined a credit union, I decided to contact them regarding a loan for a DeLorean having read here that a lot of people have had luck going through credit unions. This is their reply:
>
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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 12:37:42 -0500
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re:Collector's Car loan
I just financed two DeLoreans this past month and financed through State Farm. I think I got 7.5% its no problem.
I finance at least two cars a year through them and all it usually takes is a phone call. Of course it helps to have Stagte Farm for insurance.
Hope this helps
Ken
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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 18:22:16 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:Collector's Car loan
I just purchased 5518 last Wednesday and I used a line of credit from
Bank of America. It has 4% interest and being that it is basically a
cash allowance and not a traditional loan, I own the title.
Johnny
5518
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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 20:43:36 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brakes - Why You Should Do Preventative Maintenance
Bob and others,
I understand the statement that you were making, but my point is that
the brake system in the Delorean is very much NOT like your Taurus.
The Delorean brake system is NOT a completely sealed system, since
the vented cap allows air to interact with brake fluid in the system.
This means that you should regularly change all the brake fluid in
your Delorean on a regular basis, to remove brake fluid that has
moisture, dust and general muck in it. If you are in a climate with
high humidity or extra dusty, you may need maintenance more often.
Later,
Rich W.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Video Bob" <videobob@xxxx> wrote:
> You are correct about the preventative maintenance Rich....
> I guess the point of my letter was that:
>
> Most of us newbies who have bought cars recently don't know the
complete
> history.
> Most of these cars have been kept and stored by the original
owners with
> very moderate driving.
> My car was well kept and driven about 1000 miles per year.
> It looks perfect, and runs great.
>
> According to John Hervey, (who of course is trying to sell me
something) has
> so far
> always been right about what he tells me.
> I listen to his pitches with the typical skepticism that any
consumer would,
> but so far
> he is always dead on the money.
> He told me that everyone does the same type of thing, they think
they can
> just replace
> the pads or do a rebuild kit... but every set of core calipers he
gets back
> have rust inside,
> and are loaded with gunk.
> I think the percentage of people who actually do a brake flush at
all ever
> is very small.
> I have owned my Taurus for 6 years, with 80K miles, and I don't
think I have
> ever even
> added any fluid to it! They are fine. (for now).
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 20:05:01 -0000
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Front sway bar orientation
Stephen - The correct orientation is as follows: From the forward
attachment at the frame crumple tube, the bar angles down, and then
up, and then plugs more or less straight into the lower control
arms. If the bar was upside down, the angle from the bar to the
lower control arm would be all wrong. Do you have the proper tire
size on the front? If you use a wider profile, you may get a little
more chance of contact. I have seen other cars that did show the
same wear area that you are reporting, and they didn't have anything
wrong. There is a picture in the "techie stuff" folder in the Photos
section that shows a portion of the bar installed. The focus of the
picture is my front lower control arm links that I made, but if you
look beyond that, you'll see the bar orientation. I hope this helps.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248 (Winged1)
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts,com
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Stephen Card" <stephen@xxxx> wrote:
> During some brake work I have been doing recently I noticed the
> front sway bar had a "worn spot" on it where the front tire may
have
> been rubbing against it. I am wondering if the previous
> owner/mechanic had removed the bar and reinstalled it upside down.
> Rob Grady found this on Brett Bonte's car at the Mid-Atlantic
spring
> social last year.
> Could someone please confirm for me the proper orientation for the
> bar (angle down then up into the arm or up then down?)Or a picture
> would be great.
> Thanks,
> Stephen
> Vin 3601
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 21:15:57 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean speedometers: A new approach
tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> Why can't you use that signal for a electro-
>mechanical resolver input to drive the stock speedo? Martin G.?
>
That's what modern speedos do. My Xantia's one never shows under 5mph,
any slower and you hear a tiny "clink" as it drops to zero. I don't know
enough about speedos to say whether it'd be easy. Definitely possible
though - after all, it's still a magnet wizzing around inside the speedo
that creates the output.
Now one for you: Is the angle drive a worm drive or screw-gear drive? It
would make much more sense to have a 1:1 drive on the cable, but why on
earth use screw gears (as the shape of the housing would suggest)
instead of bevel gears which would be much more reliable!
Martin
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 22:16:01 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: DeLorean speedometers: A new approach
On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 21:30:15 -0600, Nick Kemp wrote:
> As a backup, I've pondered adding a bicycle speedometer.
> The question is not so much where to mount the magnet
> but how to mount the sensor. Just a thought. Any input?
Been there, done that...
After having my AngleDrive fail on me 5 times within one year
and spending over $500 on repairs and replacements I decided
to make a backup out of a bike computer.
I mounted a Sigma Sports BC800 where the dash dimmer used to live:
<http://members.home.nl/delorean/speedo/computer.jpg>
The dimmer was no good anyway, so I ditched it, together
with the clock which has been replaced by some lights:
<http://members.home.nl/delorean/monitor/Cooling.JPG>
(not chronologically accurate ;-)
And as Dave Swingle pointed out, the inner CV is THE place to
mount your pickup system, there's even a threaded hole in the
tranny in which you can bolt the bracket:
<http://members.home.nl/delorean/speedo/pickup.jpg>
The weeping seal on the Drive Shaft has since been replaced!
I bought a special extra strong magnet and mounted it on the
CV with a special bonding agent that's very resistant to just
about everything as it's designed to be used to stick wear pads
under the hooves of cows (no kidding) and obtains optimal adhesion
in 10 seconds!!! Just happened to have that lying around :-)
I've had it on the car since last summer and it works great,
only downside so far i that it's not lit YET...
On the upside however; I REALLY like having a speedo in KMH
instead of MPH and to have an ODOmeter in kilometers too;
very handy when driving routes with waypoints in kilometers!!!
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
--------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 25
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 21:21:04 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Front sway bar orientation
It's mounted with the bend pointing down. If mounted upside down (I did
it too a long time ago) you'll realise immediately because it fouls the
track rods.
Martin
Stephen Card wrote:
>During some brake work I have been doing recently I noticed the
>front sway bar had a "worn spot" on it where the front tire may have
>been rubbing against it. I am wondering if the previous
>owner/mechanic had removed the bar and reinstalled it upside down.
>Rob Grady found this on Brett Bonte's car at the Mid-Atlantic spring
>social last year.
>Could someone please confirm for me the proper orientation for the
>bar (angle down then up into the arm or up then down?)Or a picture
>would be great.
>Thanks,
>Stephen
>Vin 3601
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
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