[DML] Digest Number 1829
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[DML] Digest Number 1829
- From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: 11 Jan 2004 01:23:04 -0000
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Red Painted Delorean hiding in Bethlehem PA?
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
2. Live in the LA area?
From: "deloreanz" <deloreanz@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Re: seat cover ripple effect and installation
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
4. RE: Re: Heads up on oil pressure sender cross parts reference
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Delorean article in FHM (For Him Magazine)
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. RE: Heads up on oil pressure sender cross parts reference
From: "D F" <funkstuf@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: DeLo Vendor Parts vs xRef Parts
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxxxxx>
8. Re: General Maint.
From: "Nun Yah" <joshp1986@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Re: DMC Jewelry
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
10. MANUAL SHIFTING (5spd)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski@xxxxxxxxx>
11. DeLorean article in "Classics" magazine
From: "Rick" <rhaslewood@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. How much to do it all a second time around?
From: Scooby <chinatown_film@xxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Re: DMC Jewelry
From: "Hood.de" <Ryan@xxxxxxx>
14. RE: Heads up on oil pressure sender cross parts reference
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: MANUAL SHIFTING (5spd)
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
16. Re: Red Painted Delorean hiding in Bethlehem PA?
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: MANUAL SHIFTING (5spd)
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683@xxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: MANUAL SHIFTING (5spd)
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: MANUAL SHIFTING (5spd)
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: MANUAL SHIFTING (5spd)
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
21. Re: MANUAL SHIFTING (5spd)
From: Michael T Twigger <marktwigger@xxxxxxxx>
22. Re: MANUAL SHIFTING (5spd)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Door Lock Problem--Frozen?
From: PRC1216@xxxxxxx
24. Re: MANUAL SHIFTING (5spd)
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683@xxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: Door Lock Problem--Frozen?
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683@xxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 18:09:31 -0500
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Red Painted Delorean hiding in Bethlehem PA?
Here is something interesting.
A person I work with claims to have spotted a Red Painted Delorean at a
furniture store in Bethlehem PA. Supposedly the owner keeps the
Delorean and another car IN the back of the store for safe keeping. It
is allegedly the original owner, etc......
If someone in that area wants to check it out, or provide me (and the
list) with more info, below is what I have from my co-worker.
Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680
Original Message:
***********************************************
Unclaimed Freight furniture store
2260 Industrial Dr
Bethlehem, PA
The Store is located on US rt 22 and Airport rd.
Once your in the store, go back to the far left hand corner. The car is
parked behind some furniture and cardboard dividers.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 03:08:54 -0000
From: "deloreanz" <deloreanz@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Live in the LA area?
I just moved to the LA area and saw a Delorean driving on the 73
south and also saw one at a gas station near Knott's Berry Farm.
Let me know if either were you, I was excited to "see them in the
wild".
Bryan deloreanz@xxxxxxxxx
[MODERATOR'S NOTE; One great way to get connected with owhers in your area that are interested in being approached is through the various regional clubs.]
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 18:15:15 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: seat cover ripple effect and installation
In a message dated 1/8/04 7:06:45 PM Central Standard Time, james@xxxxxxxxxx
writes:
As far as installing the seat covers, I recommend that they be taken to a
local upholstery shop and installed by a professional. It's true that it can be
done yourself with the right tools, but if you take the seats out of the car
yourself (4 nuts, very easy) and take them into the shop, you should be able to
get it done for less than $100.
James Espey
DMC (Texas)
That's a little optimistic. I had Grady's seatcovers installed at a local
shop with decades of interior restoration experience. They installed new
covers, replaced the crappy foam under them, and sandblasted and painted the rails.
Cost about $250 to do it and the seats weren't bad to begin with. I just
wanted them 100% perfect, like i'm sure most of you do also. w/o the painting,
it would have been $225.
Just a heads up in case you are pricing this out. maybe you could find
someone to do JUST the cover with no custom fitting for $100 PER SEAT, but to do
both, there's a little labor involved.....
Andy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 18:56:05 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Heads up on oil pressure sender cross parts reference
David,
Naturally I agree as a vendor and if there is something wrong with a part we
can hear back and know how to correct it for the customer and everyone else.
I have sold 100's of oil pressure sending units that work perfect and have
had one failure. It leaked from the back and was promptly replaced and never
heard any thing back.
Does any one know that there apparently was a few blower motors with a spine
shaft instead of the D shape shaft. I found that out by sending out a blower
motor and the customer call me back and sent me the old motor. I
photographed it and it's now on the web site.
Things like this and feedback help to better refine the parts and look for
better ones.
One more thing, whether you buy it from me or someone else, Brake master
cylinders Re-man units have a normally high failure rate and don't last to
long just as the New old stock ( NOS ).
Just a word of caution. The high failure rate applies to almost anything
that has rubber seal or pistons that are old. Be aware.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Swingle [mailto:swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 10:12 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Heads up on oil pressure sender cross parts reference
So - how much time and driving did you spend to save the $15-20 over
a DMC vendor? The cross ref thing is fine when you are stuck on the
side of the road, and there are a some parts where you can really
save some money, but in my book $15, even on a $30 part isn't one of
them (unless you have way more time than money).
Dave S
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxx>
wrote:
> I had a fun experience this week trying to find an oil pressure
> sender replacement locally. ----- I was able to cross
> reference this part at NAPA and the price was around $27 with tax.
> It looks almost exactly like the original, with the exception that
> there is a spade connector at the top instead of a bolt and nut.
>
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 14:27:50 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean article in FHM (For Him Magazine)
Q: What is better than reading about Deloreans in a major magazine?
A: Getting that magazine with lots of photos of beautiful women too.
I just finished an article about my Delorean projects with the folks at
FHM (For Him Magazine), similar in format to Maxim Magazine.
FHM contacted me this week about doing an interview for an article
for a Speed Issue of their magazine and they wanted Deloreans in it.
The article will appear in the April 2004 Issue and should be on store
shelves by St. Patrick's Day, in mid March. The interview went well.
For all those concerned, I am letting you know, in advance, that NO
Deloreans were harmed or destroyed while doing this article with FHM.
If you want to do some advance research by picking up the latest copy
of FHM, there is a short Delorean/BTTF related article in it on page 60
and as an added bonus, you get the 2004 FHM feature women calendar
to hang on your tool box or in your corner of the garage or basement.
I'll post a reminder when the April issue hits the stores and news stands.
Later,
Rich W.
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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 05:05:42 +0000
From: "D F" <funkstuf@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Heads up on oil pressure sender cross parts reference
This brings up a question.
I here that this engine cross references with Volvo parts, I heart that it
is a Renault, and I hear that it is a Peugot.
What's the real story here? What other cars was this engine actually in. I
have heard more about it being a Renault than a Volvo...
So, who knows the truth.. Where was this engine built?
Dale Funk
4984
>From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] Heads up on oil pressure sender cross parts reference
>Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 05:10:40 -0000
>
>I had a fun experience this week trying to find an oil pressure
>sender replacement locally. On the cross-parts reference, a Volvo
>part is listed. So I called a Volvo dealership and asked them to
>send me the part, well, they said it was replaced with a newer part
>and could overnight it to me for free, so I purchased it for about
>$30. It wasn't even close. Wrong size threads, and had a spring
>loaded piston on it. So, I would like to warn everyone else that the
>part number in the cross reference list is wrong and won't thread
>into your block.
>
>I called up about 4 Volvo dealerships here in Central PA asking for
>help, and when I mentioned it was for a PRV-6, the answer was
>either "that engine was used in boats," or "i have no idea." I would
>have thought Volvo dealership mechanics would have known a thing or
>two about the engine??? This was kind of scary, considering I may
>need to call one of these places in the future, should my D ever need
>some serious engine work. I'll deal with that when it comes I
>guess.
>
>Anyway, I looked back in the backissues and found where Marty Maier
>specified the Autozone part, Wells PS-136. I was able to cross
>reference this part at NAPA and the price was around $27 with tax.
>It looks almost exactly like the original, with the exception that
>there is a spade connector at the top instead of a bolt and nut.
>
>Matt
>#1604
>
>P.S. Does anyone have any good tips for restoring the black plastic
>valences? Mine are a little scratched up.
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
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>
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>
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>
>
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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 04:34:36 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLo Vendor Parts vs xRef Parts
Some interesting points. I can't help but feel a bit incriminated
by these remarks as a traitor to the community. Having spent about
$1600 at PJ Grady in the past 2 months, and a few bucks to John
Hervey for his wraparound heatshield, I feel I've made
my "donation." I am a student, so saving a few bucks here or there
helps out. Plus, being able to get some things done on my DeLorean
makes the 200-mile round-trip home on weekends worth it. I like to
make the return trip knowing that I got something accomplished. In
this case, a few phone calls, a half hour drive, and some archive-
searching helped me to make my oil pressure gauge work again. Did I
really save any money? Maybe, maybe not. While I was at NAPA, I
also picked up some sidemarker sockets and bulbs, a battery cutoff
switch, and some stainless nuts and bolts. Yes, I know all of these
items are also available from the vendors. It's too bad none of the
vendors live half an hour away or I would instead purchase more of
these more common things from them.
I congratulate you, Mr. Swingle, on your patriotism to the vendors.
I'm sure they appreciate you purchasing your scotch-brite pads,
gasoline, sandpaper, and all of your other D-related items from
them. Let's hope if we ever see DMC cotton underwear, they are not
priced more than $15 above fruit-of-the-loom, or else I may need to
shortcut the vendors AGAIN! :-P
I agree to buy from the vendors, but I need to draw the line
somewhere.
Matt
#1604
I --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207"
<brobertson@xxxx> wrote:
> I agree with you fully UNLESS an xRef part is better than one from
a
> DeLo vendor. Those are of course very few and far between. FelPro
> valve cover gaskets do come to mind (rubber vs paper). I also
prefer
> single piece heater core shutoff valves over the OEM style (no
> external linkage between the diaphragm and butterfly plate). But
the
> vast majority of DeLorean parts are best (and easiest) delivered to
> your front door from a vendor.
>
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
>
> >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxx>
wrote:
> > So - how much time and driving did you spend to save the $15-20
over
> > a DMC vendor? The cross ref thing is fine when you are stuck on
the
> > side of the road, and there are a some parts where you can
really
> > save some money, but in my book $15, even on a $30 part isn't
one of
> > them (unless you have way more time than money).
> >
> > Dave S
> >
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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 03:27:43 -0000
From: "Nun Yah" <joshp1986@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: General Maint.
Darkstar, I live in central Arkansas and work at a Chrysler
dealership and I asked the body shop guys but they said they did not
know how to work on stainless steel.;--- In
dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia@xxxx> wrote:
> here in california i found a good shop the is currently repairing
my car.
> (some one pulled out of a driveway in front of me) what area/state
are you
> looking in?
>
> Darkstar
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Nun Yah [mailto:joshp1986@xxxx]
> Sent: January 8, 2004 1:21 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] General Maint.
>
>
> Doe's anyone know where to get a DeLoean serviced for collision
> repair in a state that does not have any DeLoean speciality shops?
> I'm trying my hardest to buy Matt Goodwin's '83 D (VIN 16130) but I
> do not want to have to take it all the way to Houston if something
> happens to the cosmitic's or chasis etc.
> Thanks for any info.
> Josh
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
address:
> moderators@xxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
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>
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>
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 16:14:26 -0800 (PST)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: DMC Jewelry
thats pretty cool. whats it made of?
jordan 11613
Ryan Hood <Ryan@xxxxxxx> wrote:
I got this from my brother when I got my Delorean last year.
Right now this is the only one he made. Is anybody is interested let me
know.
But I won't suggest it as a wedding ring ;-)
http://bttf.de/ring7sm.jpg
http://bttf.de/ring3sm.jpg
http://bttf.de/ring1sm.jpg
Ryan & 16216
> My wedding ring is 304 Stainless. Looks great, and never causes any
> irritations (almost like my car)
>
> My wife works for an SS manufacturer and her friends can make rings
> all day long for nothing out of scrap. I had been pondering producing
> rings for sale on ebay. PM me if you or anyone has any ideas or
> desires for DMC jewelry.
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Robert Moseley"
> wrote:
> > I would really like to have a "DMC" ring.
> >
> > Does anyone know who makes any?
> >
> > I noticed in the Summer 88 issue of Delorean World on page 33 there
> > was a guy named "Eugene Tufaro" who was making and selling 14k gold
> > rings with the "DMC" embossed on top.
> > Does any one know who he is and if he still makes these?
> >
> > Actually, I would rather have a "silver" colored ring, but I hate
> > sterling silver beacause it is hard to keep a shine.
> > It scratches and dents real easy.
> > I wear several Harley Davidson rings, one is made of steel and it
> > looks great... so it got be to thinking of having a ring made for me
> > out of stainless steel (that's only right after all!).
> > I was told that you can't cast a stainless ring, that it must be
> cut or
> > rolled off on a lathe in the exact size.
> >
> > So unless someone knows where I can get something simular this is
> my plan.
> >
> > My plan is to either buy or have made the actual ring, then we will
> > file down the top and drill a few anchor holes in it.
> > Then my plan is to use one of those cool little "original" "DMC" tie
> > tacks, and modify it to mount on top.
> > Not only does this make things easier, but since I am not MAKING a
> > logo but simply taking an original peice of DMC made jewelry then I
> > would not be re-creating anything and therefore not violating any
> > trademarks since James Espey would surely have something to say
> about.
> >
> > I have a number of these little tie tacks, (don't ask to buy one, I
> am
> > keeping them for these rings).
> >
> > If anyone is interested in one of these rings, I would have to have
> > your exact size as they can NOT be re-sized.
> > I am guessing the price would be between $100 - $200 each depending
> > on size and style.
> > There are several stainless rings out there that I am looking at.
> > Some of them are "comfort fit" and are beveled and designed.
> > Others are simple, like a cut of pipe.
> > So depending on what type of actual ring that you would want would
> > determine the price.
> > I will be making MINE first and will let everyone take a look at it
> > before they make orders.
> >
> > Thanks.
> > - Videobob
> > VIN# 5278
> > http://www.dfwdmc.com
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
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>
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>
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 21:11:09 -0800 (PST)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: MANUAL SHIFTING (5spd)
Questions on manual shifting adjustment--having trouble shifting. My problem is I can not shift into 1st and reverse without Great trouble, less than half the time but the rest of gears shift fine including 5th, which is a big problem.
However, if I change my adjustment on the two nuts on the adjusting cable only by one thread (to touchy if you ask me) than 1st and reverse shifts fine but it simply will not go in 5th gear, it seems there is no middle ground. Hope I didn't confuse anybody there. Right now Iv'e adjusted my Delorean so that it shifts into fifth gear but not very smoothly and 1st seems fine but it only goes into reverse about 30% of the time (ALOT OF FORCE) when it does not go into reverse it behaves as it is in 2nd gear, because I guess it is!
By the way, it does not seem to matter if the car is running or not. Problem started after transmission was installed by previous mechanic (don't know what he did-see previous post, It's taken me two months to get this far from his mistakes.
ANY SUGGESTIONS??? SEEMS SIMPLE TO FIX BUT ADJUSTMENT IS NOT WORKING!!!
---------------------------------
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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 08:38:11 -0000
From: "Rick" <rhaslewood@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean article in "Classics" magazine
G'day folks,
Just thought I'd let you know, there's a rather nice 5-page article
on John DeLorean and the DeLorean sports car in "Classics" magazine.
I believe it's a UK mag, but it's available here in Australia for
those Aussies reading this, and I presume you guys in the States
might have it as well. I just sorta stumbled upon it while I was
flicking through magazines at the newsagency.
There's a good write-up on the factory with some great pics of
DeLoreans on the production line, as well as a DeLorean "buyers
guide". It's a fairly flattering article, which is a nice change
from the usual stuff that gets written about DeLoreans.
Cheers,
Rick Haslewood,
Sydney Australia
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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 14:10:42 +0000 (GMT)
From: Scooby <chinatown_film@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: How much to do it all a second time around?
If I remember correctly, way back when, JZ decided on a figure of around $110 million to setup and get DMC successfully underway.
Now let's say you are a billionaire with a soft spot for the car and the ideal. How much would you estimate it would take in 2004 to build the factory, redesign the car - I'd suggest very minor styling updates for the exterior; interior could do with a complete overhaul - start construction, get dealers in place and have some advertising dollars left over. I'm thinking it wouldn't be less than one billion in today's market.
Fair estimate? I know if I had a billion or so to spare, I'd give it awhirl. ;)
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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 17:08:21 +0100
From: "Hood.de" <Ryan@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: DMC Jewelry
> thats pretty cool. whats it made of?
This is one is actually made of brushed Sterling silver. Looks like SS
though.
I didn't expect that SO many people were interested in the rings.
I will post the price for the ring within the next few days.
Ryan
> Ryan Hood <Ryan@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> I got this from my brother when I got my Delorean last year.
> Right now this is the only one he made. Is anybody is interested let me
> know.
> But I won't suggest it as a wedding ring ;-)
>
> http://bttf.de/ring7sm.jpg
> http://bttf.de/ring3sm.jpg
> http://bttf.de/ring1sm.jpg
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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 12:09:48 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Heads up on oil pressure sender cross parts reference
Dale,
I will give you my answer. The ( engine ) was built in Douvrin, France not
the cars and called the PRV 6 engine because of the joint venture.
Let me clarify engine, Short block w/o heads and intake and other major
parts, then you have a long block that will have heads and in some cases
intakes but made different for different markets. Over here the intake isn't
part of the short block and maybe part of the long block. Then you have all
the instrumentation, sensors, and switches which have to be different to
match up with the countries that the engine is going into. So: Volvo will
have it's differences from the Renault and the Peugeot because they are
going into different cars and markets. The problem in sourcing parts on the
engine is which market was the part originally made for and how did De
Lorean adapt to it. Example, A temperature sensor for the Delorean using an
AC Delco dash will have a different resistance normally than the same sensor
in a Volvo using a Volvo dash or who ever makes it for them. They screw into
the same hole but have different compatibility characters. So you have to
find or luck across the right sensor or equipment that Delorean used.
Another example is the CV boots we have were originally designed for the
Audi and made by Lobro. The car is full of this kind of what fits and works
and who was the prime company it was built for.
Delorean in most cases was not the initial market.
Take a look at this article on PRV6.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
Delorean Parts
http://members.fortunecity.com/perttim/therenault30file/id20.html
-----Original Message-----
From: D F [mailto:funkstuf@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 11:06 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [DML] Heads up on oil pressure sender cross parts reference
This brings up a question.
I here that this engine cross references with Volvo parts, I heart that it
is a Renault, and I hear that it is a Peugot.
What's the real story here? What other cars was this engine actually in. I
have heard more about it being a Renault than a Volvo...
So, who knows the truth.. Where was this engine built?
Dale Funk
4984
>From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] Heads up on oil pressure sender cross parts reference
>Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 05:10:40 -0000
>
>I had a fun experience this week trying to find an oil pressure
>sender replacement locally. On the cross-parts reference, a Volvo
>part is listed. So I called a Volvo dealership and asked them to
>send me the part, well, they said it was replaced with a newer part
>and could overnight it to me for free, so I purchased it for about
>$30. It wasn't even close. Wrong size threads, and had a spring
>loaded piston on it. So, I would like to warn everyone else that the
>part number in the cross reference list is wrong and won't thread
>into your block.
>
>I called up about 4 Volvo dealerships here in Central PA asking for
>help, and when I mentioned it was for a PRV-6, the answer was
>either "that engine was used in boats," or "i have no idea." I would
>have thought Volvo dealership mechanics would have known a thing or
>two about the engine??? This was kind of scary, considering I may
>need to call one of these places in the future, should my D ever need
>some serious engine work. I'll deal with that when it comes I
>guess.
>
>Anyway, I looked back in the backissues and found where Marty Maier
>specified the Autozone part, Wells PS-136. I was able to cross
>reference this part at NAPA and the price was around $27 with tax.
>It looks almost exactly like the original, with the exception that
>there is a spade connector at the top instead of a bolt and nut.
>
>Matt
>#1604
>
>P.S. Does anyone have any good tips for restoring the black plastic
>valences? Mine are a little scratched up.
>
>
>
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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 14:06:24 EST
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: MANUAL SHIFTING (5spd)
In a message dated 1/10/04 11:02:19 AM Eastern Standard Time,
john_podlewski@xxxxxxxxx writes:
> but it only goes into reverse about 30% of the time (ALOT OF FORCE) when it
> does not go into reverse it behaves as it is in 2nd gear, because I guess it
> is!
>
I had a heck of a time shifting into reverse until I realized I needed to 1)
move the shifter left as far as it would go, 2) THEN lift, 3) move the last
bit to the left then pull back into the reverse gear position. Lifting it while
starting from the neutral position just doesn't seem to work. The prior
owner of my car told me, (before I figured this out,) that he used both hands to
lift it while shifting into reverse! Not necessary if you go left as far as
you can before lifting. :) It doesn't look that way on the shifter knob
diagram, but as I recall, the diagram in the manual does show the need to lift. Still
necessary to go left as far as possible first, though it doesn't look that
way in the manual. If that doesn't get it, ease the clutch out in neutral for a
second, then try again. Of course, I assume you realize that on the
DeLorean, when the gear selector is in the neutral position, pushing it straight ahead
is 3rd. You have to spring it left or right to select gears other than 3rd
and 4th. (That gave met a fit during my first test drive,too! It's a wonder I
didn't tear up the gears test driving it!))
Wayne
11174
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 20:53:54 -0000
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Red Painted Delorean hiding in Bethlehem PA?
I can confirm that it is there (buried under a lot of dust), but not
much else. It seems to be in long term storage in the store. Call
the store. I imagine it either belongs to the manager or the
building owner. Either way you should be able to get more info over
the phone.
Stephen
3601
> Unclaimed Freight furniture store
> 2260 Industrial Dr
> Bethlehem, PA
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 13:50:13 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: MANUAL SHIFTING (5spd)
Most 5 speeds i have driven the shifter always sits in the middle of
the neutral position. I think this was for an easy shift from 2nd to
3rd for racing purposes, all you have to do is push up from second gear
and your in 3rd. any way my Delorean also rests in the middle in
neutral.
Mark
On Saturday, January 10, 2004, at 01:06 PM, deloreanernst@xxxxxxx wrote:
> In a message dated 1/10/04 11:02:19 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> john_podlewski@xxxxxxxxx writes:
>
>
>> but it only goes into reverse about 30% of the time (ALOT OF FORCE)
>> when it
>> does not go into reverse it behaves as it is in 2nd gear, because I
>> guess it
>> is!
>>
> I had a heck of a time shifting into reverse until I realized I needed
> to 1)
> move the shifter left as far as it would go, 2) THEN lift, 3) move the
> last
> bit to the left then pull back into the reverse gear position.
> Lifting it while
> starting from the neutral position just doesn't seem to work. The
> prior
> owner of my car told me, (before I figured this out,) that he used
> both hands to
> lift it while shifting into reverse! Not necessary if you go left as
> far as
> you can before lifting. :) It doesn't look that way on the shifter
> knob
> diagram, but as I recall, the diagram in the manual does show the need
> to lift. Still
> necessary to go left as far as possible first, though it doesn't look
> that
> way in the manual. If that doesn't get it, ease the clutch out in
> neutral for a
> second, then try again. Of course, I assume you realize that on the
> DeLorean, when the gear selector is in the neutral position, pushing
> it straight ahead
> is 3rd. You have to spring it left or right to select gears other
> than 3rd
> and 4th. (That gave met a fit during my first test drive,too! It's a
> wonder I
> didn't tear up the gears test driving it!))
>
> Wayne
> 11174
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
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>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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>
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 16:12:04 -0500
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: MANUAL SHIFTING (5spd)
I had a case where my shifter would not lift. It appeared to me the shifter
had been adjusted to allow it to kind-of-work without lifting it to go into
reverse. As time progressed it got to the point where I could get it into
reverse but not 5th.
I removed the plate and used a big wrench and lots of penetration oil to
free it up the shifter. Once it was freed and lubricated it became very
easy to lift.
Also, keep in mind it takes very little movement in the cable (one turn is a
lot) to align the shifter.
Ed
10541
>
> > but it only goes into reverse about 30% of the time (ALOT OF FORCE) when
it
> > does not go into reverse it behaves as it is in 2nd gear, because I
guess it
> > is!
> >
> I had a heck of a time shifting into reverse until I realized I needed to
1)
> move the shifter left as far as it would go, 2) THEN lift, 3) move the
last
> bit to the left then pull back into the reverse gear position.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 14:39:45 -0500
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: MANUAL SHIFTING (5spd)
>Of course, I assume you realize that on the
>DeLorean, when the gear selector is in the neutral position, pushing it straight ahead
>is 3rd. You have to spring it left or right to select gears other than 3rd
>and 4th. (That gave met a fit during my first test drive,too! It's a wonder I
>didn't tear up the gears test driving it!))
>
>
Do you drive any other manuals? Any manual I've driven requires you to
move left to get to 1st and 2nd and right to get to 5th. This is the
standard form for manual to operate. Of course on most cars, reverse is
below 5th (sometimes requiring a push down on the stick after moving to
the right).
Samuel
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 16:48:56 EST
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: MANUAL SHIFTING (5spd)
In a message dated 1/10/04 4:28:10 PM Eastern Standard Time,
samuel_yahoo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> Do you drive any other manuals? Any manual I've driven requires you to
> move left to get to 1st and 2nd and right to get to 5th. This is the
> standard form for manual to operate.
There are a number of shift patterns in the road today. What I learned a
stick shift on went to the junkyard decades ago! Still, it'd be nice if the
"lift" showed on the knob diagram for unfamiliar drivers. When I take my D to the
shop, I always remind them how it shifts into reverse... and how to close the
engine cover!
-Wayne
11174
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 16:47:40 -0500
From: Michael T Twigger <marktwigger@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: MANUAL SHIFTING (5spd)
I think the Delorean way of shifting in reverse is nice and easy. On some
cars getting it into reverse is tricky and will sometimes
only go in when it is warm.
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
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>
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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 22:16:53 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: MANUAL SHIFTING (5spd)
A small amount of adjustment can make a big difference. Also a little
lubrication can help a lot. Make sure the pivot bolt is not loose.
4-2-0 ref # 17 pn 110183. Make sure all the rod ends move smoothly and
are not frozen or binding. Finally look at the clutch slave and master
cylinders for any sign of leakage. If there is air in the system or
leaks then you are not getting full disengagement of the clutch and
the shifting will be hard. You should flush the fluid in the clutch
(and the brakes) every 2 years with Castrol GTLMA DOT 4. You should
also keep a spare pivot bolt in the car. They tend to break at the
most inopertune times, especially if you find yourself forcing the
trans into gear!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Samuel <samuel_yahoo@xxxx> wrote:
>
> >Of course, I assume you realize that on the
> >DeLorean, when the gear selector is in the neutral position,
pushing it straight ahead
> >is 3rd. You have to spring it left or right to select gears other
than 3rd
> >and 4th. (That gave met a fit during my first test drive,too!
It's a wonder I
> >didn't tear up the gears test driving it!))
> >
> >
>
> Do you drive any other manuals? Any manual I've driven requires you to
> move left to get to 1st and 2nd and right to get to 5th. This is the
> standard form for manual to operate. Of course on most cars, reverse is
> below 5th (sometimes requiring a push down on the stick after moving to
> the right).
>
> Samuel
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 18:10:16 EST
From: PRC1216@xxxxxxx
Subject: Door Lock Problem--Frozen?
Today I went out to my D and decided to run it and take it around the
neighborhoood for a quick spin. I got in and locked my driver door, then tried to
lock the passenger door but I could not push down the button no matter how hard
I tried. I went out and tried to lock it from the outside, but when I
turned the key the stainless around the lock seemed to push in a little then pop
back out. I stopped when I saw this and decided to ask what others thought the
problem was. Do you think the cold, 15 degree weather I have here in
Cincinnati is the problem? I wouldn't think so. Or should I be looking for
something else? The red wire is unplugged from my door lock module by the way, so
I don't think that is the problem.
Patrick
1880
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 17:25:51 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: MANUAL SHIFTING (5spd)
I know there are a number of shift patterns today but they all seem to
rest in the middle of the neutral position of every new car i have
driven and every old car i have driven. I never had a cars shifter rest
anywhere but the middle of neutral.
For any unfamiliar drivers should be told of all of the different
things to find on any car no matter if it is a Delorean or ford escort,
thats how things get broken if the drivers are not told!
Mark
On Saturday, January 10, 2004, at 03:48 PM, deloreanernst@xxxxxxx wrote:
> In a message dated 1/10/04 4:28:10 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> samuel_yahoo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
>
>> Do you drive any other manuals? Any manual I've driven requires you to
>> move left to get to 1st and 2nd and right to get to 5th. This is the
>> standard form for manual to operate.
>
> There are a number of shift patterns in the road today. What I
> learned a
> stick shift on went to the junkyard decades ago! Still, it'd be nice
> if the
> "lift" showed on the knob diagram for unfamiliar drivers. When I take
> my D to the
> shop, I always remind them how it shifts into reverse... and how to
> close the
> engine cover!
> -Wayne
> 11174
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
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>
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>
>
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http://photos.yahoo.com/snextime
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 25
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 17:21:54 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door Lock Problem--Frozen?
Well a good way to test if it is frozen is to start the car, turn up
the heater and wait to see if you can push down the button after the
car warms up inside.
Mark
On Saturday, January 10, 2004, at 05:10 PM, PRC1216@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Today I went out to my D and decided to run it and take it around the
> neighborhoood for a quick spin. I got in and locked my driver door,
> then tried to
> lock the passenger door but I could not push down the button no matter
> how hard
> I tried. I went out and tried to lock it from the outside, but when I
> turned the key the stainless around the lock seemed to push in a
> little then pop
> back out. I stopped when I saw this and decided to ask what others
> thought the
> problem was. Do you think the cold, 15 degree weather I have here in
> Cincinnati is the problem? I wouldn't think so. Or should I be
> looking for
> something else? The red wire is unplugged from my door lock module
> by the way, so
> I don't think that is the problem.
>
> Patrick
> 1880
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
>
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>
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>
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>
>
>
Come see all of my Photo's at my Website.
http://photos.yahoo.com/snextime
________________________________________________________________________
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