Re: [doc] Engines.
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Re: [doc] Engines.



h

i've just done this and no problems with the bolts.

i use plasplugs release oil, must admit i haven't found dw40 very
succesful but could be just personal preference.

if you really want to be carefull, spray one every hour for a day,
and in the sparkplug chambers, and any other bolts.
all mine came out OK, couple of plugs broke the ceramic part but the
rest ok.
i bought sink plugs (29p from wilkinsons)to plug the air intake
holes...worked a treat.

then cleaned the valley with meths, panel wip and acetone, then used
frost.co.uk metal ready, then engine laquer, EP services in
wolverhampton will recon your pump, lifetime guarantee mine was £55,
they do lots of classics.

make sure you order a full o ring kit, and bets to order all bolts
for y pipe/manifold etc.
also while you are there you may need to replce your water pipe
(mine was shot) and all pipework under there.
i also replaced my y pipe sensors.

i removed the fuel pipes at the distributor but then also took out
the injectors to test.
keep plenty of rags handy and an extinguisher, and depressurise by
cranking without the rpm relay plugged in.

Hope this helps.

Regards

Steve





--- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Nick Tomlinson
<nickandkathryntomlinson@xxxx> wrote:
>
> I used lots of WD40, a bit of heat, a tap on the bolt heads with a
drift and lots of luck.
>   
>   Luckily all mine came apart but I did re-thread and re tap
everything and smeared a bit of copper grease on before it went back
on.
>   
>   I got a water pump from ebay for £10 including postage too. It
is a 4 bolt one and I used an aluminium adapter so next time it
would be easier to change. I have got a spare new old stock one if
you need one Chris or I could get the Quinton Hazel part number for
you.
>
>   While I was in my V it got a clean out (not v dirty) a stainless
water pipe, new rubber hoses, new o rings and replaced a sensor etc
etc.....
>   
>   Seems like the way it normally goes.
>   
>   NickT.
>  
> Richard Hutchinson <dickyh11@xxxx> wrote:
>   If you do decide to take off the inlet manifold, be prepared to
open a
> can of worms. Not wanting to frighten you, the first time I did
this 1
> bolt snapped on the water pump and two inlet manifold bolts
snapped in
> the heads, it was a complete mare to drill them out.
>
> The remove the inlet manifold you'll need to remove the pipes from
the
> fuel metering head, leave the injectors where they are.
>
> Best regards,
> Rich Hutchinson
> DOC 365 VIN 1274
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf
> Of
> > Chris Williams
> > Sent: 08 December 2005 17:23
> > To: doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: Re: [doc] Engines.
> >
> > Thanks, this is really carrying on from an earlier posting. The
> > engine is spotless, and it 'seemed' that the leak was coming from
> > below the water pump leaking out from the valley. Hence why it
is so
> > difficult to see exactly where without removing the manifold. If
I
> > do this what is the best way to remove the fuel injection gear,
> > disconect the pipes from the injectors/ or pull the injectors
out?
> > Thanks
> > chris
> >
> > --- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Nick Tomlinson
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > If it was mine I would live with it or if the engine had a few
> > miles on it, chuck a oil treatment seal sweller in with an oil
> > change.
> > >
> > > Take the oil cap off slightly (to remove seal) and see if a lot
> > of oily smoke comes out. This would show the engine crankcase was
> > getting pressurised...
> > >
> > > You could be lucky and it was coming from a core plug (but I
> > don't know where they are without the diagram).
> > >
> > > Engine would be a variant of the Volvo 260 Estate B28F engine.
> > > (Same is B28E engine apart from piston crowns as far as we
could
> > tell)
> > >
> > > Why not get the engine steam cleaned first then try and back
> > trace it from there?
> > >
> > > NickT.
> > >
> > > Chris Williams wrote:
> > > Hi All,
> > >
> > > I know that it has been mentioned before and apologise for
going
> > over
> > > old ground.
> > > What is the engine exactly in the DeLorean, a B..... some thing
> > and
> > > are a lot of the parts interchangeable between the diferent
B....
> > &
> > > B.... engines. I'm thinking gasket's, blocks, Etc, Etc.
> > > Thanks
> > > Chris.
> > > vin#4584
> > > No, I have not got to the bottom of the oil leak yet, am still
> > > reluctant to think it's the block as it only weep's very
slowly.
> > Just
> > > trying to arm myself with as much info as posible before
delving
> > in
> > > there. :-)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
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