[DML] Re: Master cylinder bleeding (was front brakes not working)

["wayofcain" <wayofcain@xxxxxxxxx>]

I replaced my master cylinder Sunday (yesterday) so it's all fresh in 
my mind. 

If you have another person help you, bench bleeding was a breeze and 
only took about 5 minutes. Have someone cover both holes on the 
cylinder, press in the plunger on the back with a screwdriver, then 
bleed the front  connector first. Remember to recover the hole before 
releasing the plunger.

After you are satisfied that it is bled, do the rear in the same way.

I took more time in pulling the access panel than I ended up spending 
replacing the master cylinder and bleeding the brakes.

Feel free to email me wayofcain(at)aol.com if you want exact 
directions.

Cain Grimes
002835

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxx> wrote:
> 
> 
> One more question.....
> 
> Every time I've bled a new master cylinder it was always on the car
> (found it easier) and the car was always on level ground. While
> bleeding the master cylinder on the D, it is mounted in the car (as 
I
> usually do) BUT it is not on level ground. The D is in a sloped
> driveway where the nose of the car is higher then the rear. I am
> thinking (I could be wrong that's why I am asking) that maybe there 
is
> still air in the MC because of this slope? In other words, the air
> bubbles (if any) are not near the ports of the MC but are actually 
at
> the very front of it? I hope I am making sense the way I am 
describing
> it.......
> 
> For sanity sake, I think I am just going to pull the MC out of the 
D,
> put it in my bench vice leveled off and bench bleed it that way with
> two plastic hoses running from the ports and into the MC again. I've
> always hated bleeding the MC this way always fearing that I am going
> to slip with the screw driver while pushing in the piston and 
messing
> something up.
> 
> Steve








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