[DML] Re: Master cylinder bleeding (was front brakes not working)

["David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

If you do bleed the master cylinder off the car you must plug the
outlets till you can get the lines connected. If you don't the brake
fluid will leak out and you will get air in again. I find it much
easier to bleed on-car, that way you use the pedal and not a
screwdriver and you can quickly hook the lines up to it. The angle
should have little effect, it is angled in the car when the car is
level. I like to use small tubes and just point them into the resovoir
so you can usually do it by yourself. Sometimes you run into a
stubborn cylinder that is difficult to bleed. It takes 2 people and
you have to put your finger over the hose when the pedal is released
so it works like a check valve and you can force the air out. When the
bubbles stop  and you get a nice steam out of both hoses you know you
got it. Top off the resovoir and hook up your lines quickly. Now bleed
each caliper. Wipe up any spilled brake fluid aka paint
remover/softener. If you haven't changed the fluid in the clutch now
is a good time so both systems are done at the same time and both will
be good for 2 years.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757  


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxx> wrote:
> 
> 
> One more question.....
> 
> Every time I've bled a new master cylinder it was always on the car
> (found it easier) and the car was always on level ground. While
> bleeding the master cylinder on the D, it is mounted in the car (as I
> usually do) BUT it is not on level ground. The D is in a sloped
> driveway where the nose of the car is higher then the rear. I am
> 








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