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Been working on getting Josh's car started and have
become stumped on an electrical issue.  Here is what
we have discovered so far:

1.  The negative lead from the battery was connected
to the passenger side seat belt mounting bolt on the
inboard side.  Bought a new ground cable and connected
it to both frame and engine.

2.  Several times we turned the key to 'start' and the
engine spun.  (1-2 seconds)  Then we would try to
start the engine and on every second try, the car
would act like the battery was dead.  No dash lights,
no gauges, no nothing.

3.  Then disconnect the negative cable and reposition,
it would initially crank, but on the second try,
nothining again.

4.  Measured the volts between the jump start
connection and the engine block (key off) and got a
good 13.2 volts.  Turned the key to run and the volts
drop to just over 2 volts.

5.  After the 4th time of repositioning the battery
ground, we got NOTHING, and could never get the engine
to even turn over or even dash lights.

6. Part, if not all of the problem, is the #7 fuse.
That socket is melted and the fuse was removed.  Even
though there was no fuse in the slot, when I connected
the negative cable to ground (with the key 'on'), the
fuel pump would come on and I could hear the frequency
valve humming.  This tells me that the connection was
being made by a short somewhere in that circuit,
probably under the fuse block.  Of note, when Josh got
the car, the fuse block was not melted and all he did
was install a battery and try to crank the car.  He
then had the same thing happen that I just outlined.

Next session we are going to repair the #7 fuse and
make sure we have a solid ground.  If anyone has any
other ideas or thoughts, we'd sure appreciate any

Mike     TPS      1630

Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005

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