Re: [DMCForum] Cooling problems.

[Ryan Wright <ryanpwright@xxxxxxxxx>]

It's not the fans. I have Hervey's fans and a new 3 core radiator from
Toby, my car runs just past 1/4 on the gauge. Perfect, in all weather,
even 90+ degrees sitting in traffic with the a/c on full blast.

Bob, just having the auto bleeder in the back is not good enough. I
suggest the following, it has worked wonderfully for me:

1. Follow the flush/fill procedure here:
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/cooling.htm

The most important part of that procedure I found was:

"Reconnect the lower radiator hose but leave the block drains open.
Remove the half inch hose connected to the overflow bottle at the
filler neck. You then shove the end of the hose into the garden hose
and wrap a wet towel around the connection to slow the leak. (OR make
a brass fitting to connect to a garden hose with a 5/16" brass hose
-to- barb fitting). You then turn the hose on to a low pressure. This
forces fresh water through the system by way of the heater core in an
opposite direction that it is suppose to travel and the excess comes
out of the top of the overflow bottle or the block drains. You do this
until you get nothing but clear water. Put the block drains back in."

"Next you reconnect the heater hose to the overflow bottle and
disconnect the upper radiator hose from the engine at the housing that
contains the bleeder screw. (This is the larger of the two large
radiator hoses) You then shove the garden hose down into the upper
hose connection and wrap that wet towel around the connection again.
Or make another PVC barb to hose fitting - 1-1/2" barb is the right
size. Turn the water on low pressure and this will force clear water
through the radiator the opposite direction it is used to. You do this
until the excess fluid coming out of the overflow bottle is clear.
This will also largely purge the system of air. It is also helpful at
this time to disconnect the upper bleeder hose at the radiator to let
any trapped air out. Careful here, too, this is a small plastic
fitting."

"When finished you then pour two fresh gallons of antifreeze (if using
distilled water put it in first) into the upper radiator hose. This
will displace the water in the system and eventually as you get the
end of the second gallon into the hose you will see green coming out
of the overflow bottle. You then quickly reconnect the hose."

2. You already have the "auto bleeder" hose thing in the back, so
that's the second thing I would have recommended. This will NOT get
all of your air out, though! It is important to drain/fill/bleed
correctly to begin with!

3. You need to bleed from the radiator as well. Toby
(delorean-parts.com) sells a bleed kit that, once installed, makes the
job easy. It's cheap and well worth the money.

If the rest of your cooling system is in good shape, this should solve
the problem. Question: Do your fans come on when they are supposed to?
If not, you need to solve that first. I have Hervey's lower temp
otterstat, it makes a fair bit of difference, and I like it that way.

-Ryan

On 6/20/05, Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> VB,
> 
> 
> I know this suggestion is a lot of work, but it may help diagnosis the
> problem.
> 
> Install a temperature sensor in the discharge line from the water pump.
> 
> Install a temperature sensor in the return line from the radiator.
> 
> If the water temp coming back from the radiator is properly cooled,
> then there is a water movement problem.
> 
> If the water coming back is hot, then there is an air movement problem.
> 
> CHECK voltage to the fans.
> 
> BOB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>

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