[DMCForum] Re: Installing a Non-Zilla remote lock system.

["mydelorean" <mike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi Andrew

I appreciate the help.  Here's some more info on the remote system.  

The remote system has essentially 7 key wires - 12v, ground
and then 2 wires for unlock and 2 wires for lock - there is a 7th 
wire with a 15amp fuse labelled (GUN NO) which the instructions say 
wire to a constant 12v. supply.

UNLOCK
green/white (Labeled - UNLOCK COMCH1 on the diagram) - produces a 
12volt pulse when you click "unlock" on the hand held remote.  I got 
this reading putting it on the positive lead of the multimeter with 
meter grounded on the lock module wiring harness (black wire).
green/orange (Labeled - UNLOCK NC CH2 on the diagram) - doesn't seem 
to produce any voltage pulse when you click the hand held remote.

LOCK
blue/white (Labeled - LOCK COM on the diagram) - produces a 12volt 
pulse when you click "lock" on the hand held remote.  
blue/orange (Labeled - LOCK NC on the diagram) - doesn't seem to 
produce any voltage pulse when you click the hand held remote.

Hope the additional information helps.


Any ideas which wires should connect to the lock module?

thanks

Mike



--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Andrew <aos+yahoo@xxxx> wrote:
> On Sun, 8 May 2005, mydelorean wrote:
> 
> > The trigger lines are wired to the Pink/Red and Pink/Slate lines -
 the
> > older owner said he never could get it to work.  Should they be 
on the
> > brown/slate and brown/pink lines instead?
> 
> The red/pink and red/slate wires are the ones that actually power 
the door 
> lock solenoids (look at the lower right hand corner of the wiring 
diagram 
> to find these).  The only way that could be working is if your 
keyless 
> system is producing a *positive* output and not a negative one, and 
even 
> in that case, it would work only if your keyless box could deliver 
a 
> pretty massive current, as those solenoids are current hogs.  This 
may 
> well be why your fuses are blowing.
> 
> You probably need to find out whether your keyless box is producing 
a 
> positive or negative trigger.  If it's positive, you're connected 
to the 
> right places, but I seriously doubt it can handle the load.  If 
it's 
> negative, you're not hooked into the right wires (the brown/pink 
and 
> brown/slate wires will let the lock module's relay handle 
positively 
> powering the solenoids, which is really the right way to do this 
anyway).
> 
> You should be able to determine with a multimeter which type of 
output the 
> box is producing if you can't find specs online.
> 
> If you want the no headache, guaranteed to work solution, you might 
want 
> to yank out the old system and install something like the Wings-a-
Loft 
> system from www.delorean-parts.com.  Toby's got a wide range of 
systems 
> there, from basic keyless entry only stuff all the way up to alarm 
systems 
> with remote door and trunk opening.  Good stuff.
> 
> -andrew

---

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