Re: [DMCForum] Re: John Lane's PRV
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Re: [DMCForum] Re: John Lane's PRV



Hi Dave

If what I've heard about the later Renault engines is true (that they
all have the same bottom end as the turbo) the bottom end of your eagle
lump is what you want. There are majoy differences to the crank and
there was never an odd-fire turbo. If you want the stronger bottm end,
you'll need an even-fire lump. If your going even-fire, look at
www.sdsefi.com for a much cheaper ECU. Your turbos will just bolt on and
the only issue I can see is that you'll need different cams and valves -
which are still available from Renault for the 25 turbo.... and as far
as I know are exactly the same as the 3 litre version of the turbo
engine as used in the A610 (they use the same head gaskets so I can't
see there being a major difference!)

I'd wager this idea will come in under $5000

Martin

Dave Stragand wrote:

> A huge portion of those numbers though is John's work.  As a DIY'er, I
> will
> cut that nearly in half, but granted, it will be expensive.  I know
> that to
> get that kind of power is going to be quite, quite expensive.  I do
> have an
> advantage already having the turbos though, and that's where most of the
> power comes from.
>
> Just rough estimates though... Let's say that a D makes 140 HP.  Add
> in some
> good head & manifold porting/polishing/smoothing, and that will jump the
> output of a normally aspirated engine about 35% (189hp). Increase the bore
> size by 7% (3.0 cylinders), and you are at 202hp.  That's where it gets
> interesting with the turbos.  At a medium 7 pounds of boost, the output
> would be roughly 50% more, or 300hp.  At 15psi, it would be roughly 400hp.
> That's all assuming that the lower end can handle that kind of power -- NO
> ONE SHOULD TRY THAT WITH A STOCK MOTOR.  As Marc said, that would
> equal 'pop
> goes the engine'.  However, with a modified engine capabale of
> routinely and
> solidly handling that power with no ill effects, fun things can be done.
>
> Now, assuming I go with an odd-fire setup, with Eagle heads and cylinders,
> custom rods and pistons, liquid-to-air intercooler, D intake, J&S
> ignition,
> and a Porsche 3.0 liter fuel system capable of the correct enrichment
> under
> boost, I should be able to do it for under $5k without a problem. 
> Remember
> though, I already have a twin-turbo setup and a J&S unit -- if you didn't
> have that, you would add $7500+ to the costs.
>
> But let's say that I go with an even-fire setup, which John has stated
> will
> make the most power.  Scratch my J&S, which is set up only for odd-fire.
> That means I would need something electronic to handle the correct spark
> curve.  Enter the TEC3, and exit $3000.  Since I would need something like
> that for the spark anyway, may as well use the EFI in the unit for the
> fuel.
> It allows incredibly easy tuning changes to the fuel and spark curve. 
> I can
> use the Eagle intake and Volvo throttle body for yet more power, OR, a
> drilled-and-tapped D manifold set up to take the new fuel injectors. 
> Either
> of those setups could yield 500+ hp at the rear wheels.
>
> Given that either one of these setups would blow the UN1 to bits, I may as
> well rebuild it to Lotus specs in advance instead of after it
> explodes.  Add
> the new differential ($1300), custom clutch ($500), new fifth gear ($300),
> new ring gear ($200) and new input shaft ($250 - $500) and the costs again
> are substantial.  I would also have new driveshafts made with heavier
> universals ($400) to boot.
>
> Yes, it's a crazy amount of money compared to swapping in another engine.
> The Esprit engine might even be cheaper.  However, I would be doing it
> more
> for the "I can't believe you got that to work" factor/insanity that is
> something that Rich W, Rick Gendreau and I all share.
>
> Hey, have you spoken to Dave Harvey, the New Zealand guy who makes GT40
> parts?  He sells the upgraded input shaft for $250 -- might be worth
> investigating as an item you could sell as well.




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