[DMCForum] Re: Why not just do it right? Don't make it a Frankenstein
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[DMCForum] Re: Why not just do it right? Don't make it a Frankenstein

My carbureted engine *IS* a PRV. Is A series Volvo. Purchased it new
on a pallet. Has never had so much as a drop of oil poured into it.
This is way closer to the factory than I'll ever get from a parts car
(if you look past the fact it isn't set up for K Jetronic...).

Only difference in A series heads versus F is they were never drilled
for fuel injector bungs. This makes spark plugs *TOTALLY* accessible BTW.

Differences between A and F series intake manifolds:
- Ignition distributor is exposed, not burried
- Clutch slave cylinder is exposed, not burried
- Clamps on back of the water pump are exposed, not burried
- Heater core takeoff hose is exposed, not burried
- Only potential vacuum leaks are the 6 O rings (and the carb itself
of course)
- Intake manifold is removed in 1.5 minutes

Differences between carburetion and K Jetronic:
- Low PSI fuel pump (hope to eventually find a mechanical one)
- No accumulator
- No RPM relay after I find a mechanical pump
- Small cartridge fuel filter
- Much less susceptible to gum, varnish, particulates, etc
- Only one point of atomization (all 6 cylinders guaranteed metered
- $125 carburetor
- Ported vacuum (for some reason the ported vacuum nipple on my Z7V
never shuts off. Isn't the throttle plates -- they're fully closed)

My car is pretty heavily modified already:
- Dual exhaust
- 5 courtesy lights
- Turn signal side markers
- 3rd brake light
- Simplified radiator plumbing
- Totally rewired exterior light circuit with single action dash switch
- Eventual cruise control (charcoal canister has been removed to make
room for the vacuum canister)

I'm not getting rid of my Z7V. Is a surprisingly zippy engine. Would
some day like to drop it into a second DeLo. It will be a lot easier
to repair the oil leak out of the car too.

I've got a complete spare B27F (with Volvo transmission) BTW. And
everything north of the heads from a junkard B28F. Have located a B280
in Maryland that I may purchase this summer. Am accumulating engines
faster than I can use them.

Bill Robertson

>--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "joeyoseppijoe" <joeyoseppijoe@xxxx>
> Bill,
> Just a thought, why not look for either a used PRV from the many
> parted out Deloreans in this country, or just park the car till you
> save enough money to buy a new engine. Therefore you won't have a
> hodgepodge Delorean Frankenstein just so it drives? Since you'll be
> replacing the engine, why waste the effort required with an
> incorrect engine, and not just do it correctly? Don't take offense
> like I'm bashing the carb option, just thinking about keeping the
> car intact. I'm sure some calls around would get you a used PRV
> somewhere, and you could reinstall the plumbing to it and be running
> again. Know what I mean?
> Joe
> 2524 & 16634
> --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>
> wrote:
> > To put the ending first: I am soliciting suggestions for securing a
> > plate to my former fuel pump opening. I envision a large circular
> disc
> > with a 1/4" tube stuck straight down into my Hervey baffle (filter
> > screen attached). I just need to hold it in place, and keep crap
> out
> > of my tank. Cutting the lip off an old baffle might be easiest...
> >
> > The story: While road testing my clutch installation, engine
> suddenly
> > developed what could charitably be described as an "oil leak".
> Belts
> > were slinging it absolutely everywhere. Entire engine compartment
> was
> > coated. Dripped from the timing chain cover like the DeLorean
> Valdez
> > (didn't leave oil spots on the pavement -- left amazingly large
> > puddles). My brand new dual exhaust is black from barbequed oil.
> Has
> > even been slung out the louver vents all over the exterior (bet I'm
> > made friends at the stop light left & right).
> >
> > Checked timing cover bolts -- all were tight. Reseated the lower 8
> in
> > silicone with oversize washers to no effect.
> >
> > Replaced front oil seal (one advantage of not having a muffler
> across
> > the back of your car) to no effect.
> >
> > Flooded the "valley of death" as an experiment. Sure enough, water
> ran
> > into crank case and foamed my oil.
> >
> > My current block has a hole in it a'la Dave Swingle (who theorizes
> > this will become an ever increasing problem among PRV's that have
> > spent majority of their life sitting outdoors).
> >
> > Since I have a brand spanking new PRV sitting in one corner of the
> > diesel shop, obvious solution is an engine swap on the eve of
> Pigeon
> > Forge...
> >
> > Is carbureted A series, so I need 4-6 PSI fuel pressure. Wanted to
> go
> > mechanical, but I can't find a pump to fit my block (has a circular
> > opening to the camshaft, not oblong). Volvo used dual electric
> pumps
> > even in the early 1970's, not mechanical. A regulator for my
> current
> > CI pump would cost more than a rail mounted low PSI model. So too
> > would a low PSI pump in the existing boot. I'm looking at generic
> > industrial pumps, mounted to flat surface, $50 or so.
> >
> > As stated, a tube will run straight down into the tank, attached
> to a
> > new low pressure line to the rear of the car. Will probably put the
> > pump back there simply because there's more mounting options.
> >
> > Any suggestions to secure my plate to the tank?
> >
> > Bill Robertson
> > #5939

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