[DMCForum] Re: !! - starting problem please back on track solved?
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[DMCForum] Re: !! - starting problem please back on track solved?



It was the fuel pump...damn - it was BRAND NEW!!

I put in the old one and it started right up...

BUT  I got to learn a hell of a lot and for that I am very thankful!!

Especially to you Rich for being patient with me and taking me
through steps that may well come in handy in the future!!

thanks again!

--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Brian" <TK581@xxxx> wrote:
> I would like to thank everybody who offers thier knowledge.  When
it
> comes to electronics I am a beginner though so please be patient.
>
> Okay, I got the starting fluid and tried it with the jumper in
> place.  It did indeed start... then stop.  duh - should have
known. 
> It seems pretty obvious that there is not enough or no power going
> to the pump.  What struck me as odd though is that my pump is hot
> where I never noticed that before.  I double checked the wires
that
> plug in right under the spare tire well (you know, the ones nearly
> imposible to hook and un-hook - at least in my car)  The hot pump
> kind of scares me but I'm going to swap the old pump back becasue
it
> makes sense in my own mind.  If that one doesn't get enough power
> then I can assume it is an electrical problem.  I'll probably get
a
> new relay anyways just in case.
>
> I hope I didn't blow anything up...
>
> --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > Wow...
> >
> > It's a mystery for sure. I mean is it really likely that the
fuel
> > pump AND the relay are faulty?
> >
> > You do realize that you will only have voltage for 1 second when
> the
> > RPM relay is in place and you turn the key on right? The engine
> has
> > to be turning for the relay to engage constantly. The RPM relay
> has a
> > timer chip and an input from the ignition coil sensing engine
> > rotation. It's a safety device. The fuel pump isn't meant to run
> when
> > the key is on, but the engine isn't running.
> >
> > Hm...I agree with your choice of action. If you have voltage at
> the
> > fuel pump, ON THE FUEL PUMP +/- TERMINALS, and you have no
sound,
> or
> > vibration, swap your old pump back in.
> >
> > It would be a shame if your new pump died already. It has
happened
> > before though so I wouldn't be totally shocked.
> >
> > Rich A.
> >
> > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Brian" <TK581@xxxx> wrote:
> > > Okay - I didn't bother test starting it because with the
jumper
> (a
> > > godd one) in place and a full battery I'm getting 9.5volts at
> the
> > > pump.  I do not hear the pump either (with ignition turned or
> > off). 
> > > I might replace the new pump with my old one to check to see
if
> I
> > > get a different result (I don't think my old pump was ever
> broken,
> > I
> > > just replaced it as a revamp)  - should I even bother with
> that? 
> > SO
> > > I'm pretty sure that the relay is bad becasue I get no voltage
> when
> > > it is place and at least I get 9.5 when I have the jumper in
> place.
> > > I hope to have some more info by tomorrow evening...  :)
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > It's not a dumb question. Remove the air cleaner and press
> down
> > > the
> > > > air flow sensor, spray in a little starter fluid. DONT go
nuts
> > > with
> > > > it. You could flood the engine or worse, have a wicked back-
> fire.
> > > >
> > > > Just a "one thousand and one" squirt. Start the car
> immediately
> > > > before it all evaporates.
> > > >
> > > > Tell me again: Did you hear or feel fuel pump activity with
> the
> > > good
> > > > jumper in between 30 and 87?? Did you measure 12 volts at
the
> > fuel
> > > > pump wires when the jumper was in place??
> > > >
> > > > Don't bother starting the car with the relay in place. We
> already
> > > > know it doesn't work.
> > > >
> > > > If you have 12 volts on the fuel pump with the jumper and
you
> > hear
> > > it
> > > > buzz, with the jumper, it's worth a test start.
> > > >
> > > > Rich A.
> > > > #5335
> > > >



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