[DMCForum] Re: very frustrated!! - starting problem

["Brian" <TK581@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks,

For whatever reason I was able to redo the relay test you prescribed 
earlier and got new results.  I assume 'buzzing' to life means that 
I can hear it?  I had the voltmeter hooked to the pump connectors as 
I did the test.  With the relay in place the pump got no juice...it 
went down to 0.0.  with the paperclip in place at 30 and 87 I got 
sparks as well as a hot paper clip.  The voltmeter read a consistent 
7.5 at the pump.  Can I isolate this to the relay then?  Even so, 
the pump doesn't actually hum or anything.

Another thing I notice is that the car wont even bother to try and 
turnover.  I think my battery is going dead or do you think it could 
be the coil?  I can't find the battery charger so I didn't get a 
chance to charge the battery up yet.

Thanks again!!


--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> Ah, good question. Sorry :)
> 
> At the inertia switch, you need to do a "continuity" check. The 
> ground wire from the fuel pump is black/purple, it goes to the 
> intertia switch. Clip one ohm meter probe to the ground wire on 
the 
> pump, then clip the other one to the black/purple contact on the 
> intertia switch plug. If it reads "open" your fuel pump is 
grounded 
> elsewhere and you need to find it. It's probably fallen off. If it 
> reads "short" then the b/p wire is attached to the harness as it 
> should be.
> 
> Also, inspect the BLACK wire on the inertia switch plug to make 
sure 
> it's grounded properly. Just touch the one probe to the black wire 
> contact and the other probe to the body or frame somewhere. Again, 
> short=good, open/resistance=bad. If the pump is grounded at the 
> switch but the -switch- ain't grounded you'll still have the 
problem. 
> 
> Lastly, (regarding the inertia switch) remove and inspect the 
black 
> box. Look at the contacts. Is the plastic melted around them? The 
> older style were a point of failure. They were underrated. You can 
> also put your ohm meter on the contacts and pull the plunger to 
make 
> sure it's operating properly. Plunger down= short. Plunger up= 
open. 
> This is the correct mode of operation.
> 
> I'm really pushing this grounding issue because you jumpered your 
RPM 
> relay and still only had 00.00 volts (flashing 7v). That clears 
the 
> relay from the problem. BTW, I think your jumper was probably fine.
> 
> Oh hell, I just remembered. DeLoreans use the European habit of 
> switching grounds on and off, not power. Definitely follow the 
steps 
> above, but also jumper the RPM relay again, and measure for 12v on 
> the white/purple wire but do it with a ground OTHER than the 
ground 
> wire on the pump. Use the body or frame somewhere. 
> 
> If you have no voltage, go back to the inertia switch and touch 
> white/purple, and an independent ground again. (Frame/body).
> 
> If you have no voltage THERE, go back to the RPM relay and do it 
> again! Unplug the relay and touch W/P and an independent ground. 
The 
> seat belt mounting bolts make a good ground I think. You're 
tracing 
> the flow, finding the break in the pipe.
> 
> Electricity is just plumbing. Electrons flow instead of water and 
the 
> pipes are really tiny.
> 
> Post your findings when you can.
> 
> Rich A.
> #5335
> 
> --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Brian" <TK581@xxxx> wrote:
> > > Ok, two or three people have told you where the interia switch 
is.
> > 
> > What exactly am I supposed to check here?  It's pluged in and 
it's 
> a 
> > black box... :)
> <snip!>

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