[DMCForum] Re: very frustrated!! - starting problem
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[DMCForum] Re: very frustrated!! - starting problem

Ok, two or three people have told you where the interia switch is.

When you measured voltage at the fuel pump did you have one probe on
the ground wire and one on the white/purple wire ON the fuel pump?
That's where you were taking the reading right?

If all you get is a flash of voltage before the "00.00", then the
pump isn't getting voltage. Did you hear it run at all?

Make a wire jumper and put it between pin 37 and pin 80 on the RPM
relay socket. Then measure voltage at the pump, and listen for noise

If you have voltage and the pump makes noise, the relay is bad and
the car might even start with the jumper in.

If you have no voltage, I recommend you trace your ground wire from
the fuel pump.

Many, many owners (including me) have found their fuel pumps grounded
anywhere but where it's supposed to be.

Right now I'm leaning towards your RPM relay being faulty but it's
hard to tell without being there.

Rich A.

--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Brian" <TK581@xxxx> wrote:
> Thanks for all the info!  Here's my situation thus far.
> I have a full tank of fuel.  The sender is not working properly. 
> shows a half tank of gas and I know it is full.  I did check the
> sender outside of the tank and it does respond to a dry test. 
> (Perhaps the floater has a hole or it is too weighty?)
> The rpm relay looks fine actually.  It is black and the contacts
> clean and straight.  I wouldn't mind sending a pic so I know that I
> indeed am checking the correct thing.
> NOw for the volt test.  I checked it and when the ignition is
> it jumped for a split second to 7-8 then back to 00.00  This may
> be entirely accurate becasue it only flashed a charge for a split
> second and so I may not have read it right.  This tells me that
> perhaps a relay is bad or the ground is not good (am I on the right
> track?) My ground is attached well to the pump but I re-did it
> anyways.  I looked in the relay compartment and I found that a good
> number of fuses were mismatched with the wrong numbers!!  So before
> I do anything else I'm going to make sure everything is in stock
> order as far as I can tell so I can rule out any funky electrical
> mayhem in the compartment.
> By the way - the battery is charged at 11.8 or so...
> stupid question... where is the inertia swtch?
> thanks again!!
> --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > Hi Brian,
> >
> > First, I'd like to say that the "click, click, click" is your RPM
> > relay. One of the contacts is bent just enough to resist the
> magnetic
> > pull of the relay and won't hold. I bought a brand-new one that
> did
> > exactly that. 2 seconds with a pair of needle-nose pliers and
> > been fine ever since. The relay is a timed, single-relay, double-
> > contact type. Look in your manual to find it. If it's OEM, it's
> > green. My new one is black. Either way it's large and rectangular
> > with a large wiring harness plugged into it. You can pry the case
> off
> > the relay and observe it's behavior before you go bending
> >
> > Second, the sound of the fuel pump changes depending on how much
> fuel
> > you have in your tank (at least for me). How much gas do you
> Is
> > your sender working? Let's break it down a bit:
> >
> > Electrically, check:
> >
> > 1. Voltage at the pump. Jumper contacts 37 to 80 at the RPM
> > Measure the voltage at the pump. Listen for noise while you're
> there.
> >
> > 2. No voltage? Check your fuel pump ground, your intertia safety
> > switch, and the RPM relay wiring harness.
> >
> > Fuel system, check:
> >
> > 1. Does the car fire off with a shot of starting fluid? If so,
> most
> > likely a loss of fuel pressure.
> >
> > 2. No? Check for spark at a spark plug. Yes? No?
> >
> > Post your results and we'll go from there.
> >
> > Regarding your RPM relay again...for me, the contact that was
> > slipping in the relay was the one for the lambda relay and hence
> the
> > ECU. The fuel pump contact closed correctly and the fuel pump ran
> as
> > it should so the car would start and run. If you have the
> > problem, your lambda relay contact is closed as it should be but
> your
> > FUEL PUMP contact is only closed intermittantly. This could be
> > problem, as the fuel pump is "on/off, on/off on/off" but I've
> never
> > heard of it happening. Hell, I've never even heard of MY problem
> > happening to anyone else, let alone with a brand new relay like I
> > have. It's worth looking into as the RPM relay should be fixed
> anyway.
> >
> > Rich A.
> > #5335
> >
> > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Brian" <TK581@xxxx> wrote:
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > Well, over the past few weeks I revamped my fuel tank system
> with a
> > > new pump and lines!  It worked ut great and the car performs
> great
> > > (except for a few shutters here and there which I suspect may
> a
> > > vacuum leak somewhere)
> > >
> > > ANYWAY... I started the car in the driveway the other evening
> and
> > it
> > > sprang to life on the first try.  It sat there idling for a
> minute
> > > or so then died!  I attempted to start it again with no luck. 
> It
> > is
> > > as if the engine was not getting any fuel.  I kept trying then
> got
> > a
> > > bit frustrated and let it be for the night.  The next day I
> tried
> > > again and still no luck.  I hear a series of clicking sounds
> from
> > > the electricalcompartment (not the usual 'one' but a click,
> click,
> > > click)  could this an electrical issue? 
> > >
> > > I also listened to the fuel pump when I turned the ignition
> key. 
> > It
> > > sounds like it gets juice but it doesn't 'whine' like it
> should. 
> > > Again, the pump is brand new and it ran great for a few days
> before
> > > this.  I'm kind of at a loss because I know for sure what went
> into
> > > the fuel fix and I can't see any rreason why this is happening.
> > >
> > > I miss my car running :(
> > >
> > > thanks in advance if anybody has a suggestion.
> > >
> > > Brian
> > > 11280

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