[DMCForum] steering geometry. was Re: Speak slowly, use small words (On
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[DMCForum] steering geometry. was Re: Speak slowly, use small words (On Topic)
- From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2004 16:27:33 -0000
Very cool Rick. Thanks!
I did have extensive welding done up front due to rust.
The crumple tube bottom was toast.
Part of the frame, specifically, the "Y" uh, the part that the
crumple tube mounts to, the part that closes off the Y was rusted
away in the center. Not completely, but it wasn't good. Am I making
The welder replaced the metal in the center with cast iron, square
tubing from an old automobile frame he had. He said this was
necessary to keep the lower control arms from shifting. Because the
metal wasn't completely gone, I believe that nothing had shifted yet
and his repair is good.
If the camber is negative, it's not so bad that I can tell just by
looking at the wheels. I'd have to use the roofing square. It took
months of driving for the tire wear to manifest.
Jeeze I wish those tie-rod ends would get here so I can get aligned.
They're in the mail.
--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "twinenginedmc12"
> --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > Someone please explain DeLorean steering geometry to me. I am
> > familiar with some terms: Toe, caster and camber.
> > Due to the wear on the inner edges of my tires, I suspect they
> > pointed like this: // \\ (If you're looking at the car head-
> > Instead of: || || (Ditto)
> > Which of the above 3 is responsible for this, and is it
> > the DeLorean?
> > My new tie-rod ends will be here soon and I'm going to take it to
> > alignment joint up the road Friday morning. Before I do, I want
> > know if I have something else that's really wrong.
> > I have read the tech section of DMC news and a few other places
> > find the explanations lacking.
> > Thanks,
> > Rich A.
> > #5335
> Hi Rich.
> Inner edge tire wear would mostly be caused by excessive negative
> camber (wheels pointed like this: // \\ if you're looking at the
> car head-on), like you said earlier, or misaligned wheels, with toe
> out(wheels pointing away from each other in front)
> You can check camber easily yourself, with only a roofing square
> (24"x18" "L" shaped right angle) for tools.
> Camber measurement
> Simply find a flat level piece of parking lot, and roll the car to
> coasting straight line stop on it. Don't use the front brakes
> stopping, the brake force changes the steering geometry. Place one
> edge of the roofing square against the ground pointing away from
> tire, and the other edge against the tire, pointing upwards, away
> from the ground. Avoid the part of the tire that's squished
> at the point where the tire touches the ground. I personally put
> as close to the middle of the wheel as I can, while avoiding the
> contact patch bulge.
> Look for a gap between the roofing square and the tire. If there's
> big gap at the top part of the tire between the roofing square and
> the tire, the camber is excessively negative.
> If there's a big gap at the bottom part of the tire between the
> roofing square and the tire, the camber is excessively positive.
> If the roofing square touches the tire at the top and bottom of the
> rim, the camber is neutral.
> Most cars are specified to have neutral, or very slightly negative
> camber. I don't know the Delorean specification.
> Since Deloreans don't have adjustable camber, if you find that the
> camber is excessively negative, your car has problems, something
> or broken or worn out. If your camber is okay, it's very likely
> incorrect toe. That's what my money is on, since it's the only
> that's really adjustable, and you haven't crashed your car yet,
> suggests that the suspension is still mostly intact.
> Toe is a little harder to check yourself, but it can also be done.
> I wouldn't worry about the caster, since it is not adjustable, and
> much less likely to get screwed up from suspension damage than
> Since people who lower their cars don't complain about this wear
> problem, it's likely that ride height doesn't affect this wear, so
> springs or shocks are also less likely culprits.
> As an aside, the three different parameters, camber, caster, and
> all interact. If more than one is wrong at a time, it gets really
> hard to diagnose tire wear. If you make changes, make small
> to only one at a time, and assess the effect.
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