Re: [DMCForum] Re: Steering rack adventures

[Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>]

What?  If he measured high negative camber, what does this have to do
with caster or toe?  The sway bar is the only thing that sets the caster
on the front tires, so a damaged sway bar bushing or damaged crumple tube
will definitely affect caster.

Regarding the problem though, reading tires is an art- just because your
camber of off, fixing it might not solve the problem.  Toe and other
things can cause the tire to wear unevenly.

Jim

> In terms of the "camber" issue, I would remove the rubber donut 
> bushings from the sway bar to lower control arm connections on both 
> sides.  I think that you will find that the rear-most bushings are 
> shot.  The rubber tears away from the steel sleeve, and this allows 
> the lower control arm to drift back, creating the illusion of toe-
> out.  Your caster will be off as well.  It's not really a caster 
> problem.  I replaced my bushings (which were as I described above) 
> with custom polyurethane bushings.  It made all the difference.
> 
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 (Winged1)
> Delorean Parts Northwest, LLC
> www.delorean-parts.com
> 
> 
> --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Andrew <aos+yahoo@xxxx> wrote:
> > Okay, I replaced the steering rack today, but things didn't go 
> quite as 
> > smoothly as I'd planned, so hopefully I can get a litte input from 
> 
> some 
> > who have been there...
> > 
> > 1) It seems to be impossible to get my steering wheel to line up 
> in its 
> > default position.  If I line the steering wheel up, the wheels are 
> 
> off by 
> > enough that one of the two tie rod ends has to be run waaaaaay 
> out, and 
> > the other one cannot go far enough in to correct the error on that 
> 
> side.  
> > Spinning the wheel 360 degrees generates the same problem in the 
> opposite 
> > direction.
> > 
> > Because of the flat sections on the splines in the universal 
> joint, there
> > is only one way (per 360 degree revolution) that the joint can be
> > assembled.  Once assembled in any of the possible ways, however, 
> the
> > adjustment necessary to generate some semblance of alignment is 
> beyond the
> > range of the adjustable parts.
> > 
> > Am I missing something basic here?  Or is this rebuilt rack 
> manufactured 
> > differently enough from the old one that the wheel needs to be 
> pulled and 
> > reinstalled?  I don't particularly mind if that's what I have to 
> do, as 
> > I'd really like to get it recovered anyway.
> > 
> > 2) Hopefully I've just done a poor job of eyeballing the 
> alignment, but 
> > when I try to drive down the street (having reconnected everything 
> 
> nicely 
> > with the steering while simply turned about 120 degrees wrong), 
> the car 
> > has a very strong desire to steer extremely quickly toward the 
> nearest 
> > curb.  Is this just the result of too much toe out?
> > 
> > 3) I seem to have big camber problems.  This isn't really related 
> to the
> > steering rack install, but now is when I noticed it.  When I 
> pulled off
> > the wheels, I saw that my tires are worn very unevenly, almost 
> entirely on
> > the inside, and once I buttoned everything back up and looked, it 
> looks
> > like my camber is about two degrees negative, which is way more 
> than what
> > it should be (manual says 0.5).  The worrying part of this, 
> however, is
> > that camber is not adjustable on this car.  Anyone know what's 
> wrong here?
> > 
> > Thanks.
> > 
> > -andrew
> >  #4115
> 
> 
>  
> 
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