Re: [DMCForum] Re: Steering rack adventures
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Re: [DMCForum] Re: Steering rack adventures



What?  If he measured high negative camber, what does this have to do
with caster or toe?  The sway bar is the only thing that sets the caster
on the front tires, so a damaged sway bar bushing or damaged crumple tube
will definitely affect caster.

Regarding the problem though, reading tires is an art- just because your
camber of off, fixing it might not solve the problem.  Toe and other
things can cause the tire to wear unevenly.

Jim

> In terms of the "camber" issue, I would remove the rubber donut 
> bushings from the sway bar to lower control arm connections on both 
> sides.  I think that you will find that the rear-most bushings are 
> shot.  The rubber tears away from the steel sleeve, and this allows 
> the lower control arm to drift back, creating the illusion of toe-
> out.  Your caster will be off as well.  It's not really a caster 
> problem.  I replaced my bushings (which were as I described above) 
> with custom polyurethane bushings.  It made all the difference.
> 
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 (Winged1)
> Delorean Parts Northwest, LLC
> www.delorean-parts.com
> 
> 
> --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Andrew <aos+yahoo@xxxx> wrote:
> > Okay, I replaced the steering rack today, but things didn't go 
> quite as 
> > smoothly as I'd planned, so hopefully I can get a litte input from 
> 
> some 
> > who have been there...
> > 
> > 1) It seems to be impossible to get my steering wheel to line up 
> in its 
> > default position.  If I line the steering wheel up, the wheels are 
> 
> off by 
> > enough that one of the two tie rod ends has to be run waaaaaay 
> out, and 
> > the other one cannot go far enough in to correct the error on that 
> 
> side.  
> > Spinning the wheel 360 degrees generates the same problem in the 
> opposite 
> > direction.
> > 
> > Because of the flat sections on the splines in the universal 
> joint, there
> > is only one way (per 360 degree revolution) that the joint can be
> > assembled.  Once assembled in any of the possible ways, however, 
> the
> > adjustment necessary to generate some semblance of alignment is 
> beyond the
> > range of the adjustable parts.
> > 
> > Am I missing something basic here?  Or is this rebuilt rack 
> manufactured 
> > differently enough from the old one that the wheel needs to be 
> pulled and 
> > reinstalled?  I don't particularly mind if that's what I have to 
> do, as 
> > I'd really like to get it recovered anyway.
> > 
> > 2) Hopefully I've just done a poor job of eyeballing the 
> alignment, but 
> > when I try to drive down the street (having reconnected everything 
> 
> nicely 
> > with the steering while simply turned about 120 degrees wrong), 
> the car 
> > has a very strong desire to steer extremely quickly toward the 
> nearest 
> > curb.  Is this just the result of too much toe out?
> > 
> > 3) I seem to have big camber problems.  This isn't really related 
> to the
> > steering rack install, but now is when I noticed it.  When I 
> pulled off
> > the wheels, I saw that my tires are worn very unevenly, almost 
> entirely on
> > the inside, and once I buttoned everything back up and looked, it 
> looks
> > like my camber is about two degrees negative, which is way more 
> than what
> > it should be (manual says 0.5).  The worrying part of this, 
> however, is
> > that camber is not adjustable on this car.  Anyone know what's 
> wrong here?
> > 
> > Thanks.
> > 
> > -andrew
> >  #4115
> 
> 
>  
> 
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