I'm no metallurgist either but suspect there's something about formulation of aluminum in DeLo wheels that reacts more negatively with steel than usual. Mine stick to rotor every time I remove and have to be beaten loose. Tried a layer of bearing grease where they contact but it didn't help. Isn't titanium just a heat resistant coating on ordinary HSS bits? Bill Robertson #5939 >--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote: > I agree, the problem isn't in the threads. I sliced the ends of the > lug nuts off with a dremel to expose the lug. I sprayed PB Blaster in > there...no change. The problem is galvanic welding at the cone, or > something to do with overheating.... > > At any rate, I saw cobalt bits with the Ti at the hardware store but > not being a metallurgist, I thought the shiny gold Ti bit would work > better than the ordinary, silver-looking cobalt bit. I will pick one > up and try it. > > I've used heat and hammered away at these things with no luck. > > Basically, my plan with respect to the two "intact" lug nuts is to > drill out the center of the lugs as wide as I can, and pound a > smaller socket on there and -snap- the lugs & nuts off. > > The one that sheared off....I'm just drilling it out the hard way. > > > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> > wrote: > > Heat and oil work on rust. If problem is in threads that should do > it > > (hit it with MAPP gas from the back side and capillary oil from the > > front). But really suspect you're dealing with electrolysis in taper > > where nut meets wheel -- don't know effect of heat on that. > > > > Remember to slow dill down. High RPM's will dull a big bit faster > than > > anything. And use a lot of cutting oil. > > > > Could be situation where hammering works better than torque. Kind of > > like crankshaft pulley nut -- longest cheater in the world won't > budge > > but a few raps with impact wrench spins right off. Is yours rounding > > off nut? If so, try forcing slightly undersize socket onto it (isn't > > graded steel -- that's why it snapped) and just beat away. Bound to > be > > more fun than watching a drill bit spin all afternoon. > > > > Bill Robertson > > #5939 > > > > >--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote: > > > Dood, > > > > > > The stud is exposed. When I looked at the half that stuck in the > > > socket, I saw the shiny shell and the harder internal piece. > Trust me. > > > > > > I spent yesterday drilling. I bought a $10.00 titanium drill bit. > > > This thing sucks. It won't break but it's not sharp either. It > took > > > me all day to drill away most of ONE stud and I still haven't > gone > > > far enough to free even that one. > > > > > > This blows goats and if anyone has a faster idea I'm listening.... > > > > > > Rich > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote: > > > > Rich, are you sure your nut broke in half? It seems more > likely to > > > me that > > > > the decorative SS cap came off. Then all you need is to put a > > > smaller > > > > socket on it. > > > > > > > > Walt Yahoo! Groups Sponsor <http://rd.yahoo.com/M=259395.3614674.4902533.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=170512 6215:HM/A=1524963/R=0/SIG=12o885gmo/*http://hits.411web.com/cgi-bin/autore dir?camp=556&lineid=3614674?=egroupweb&pos=HM> <http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=259395.3614674.4902533.1261774/D=egroupm ail/S=:HM/A=1524963/rand=707817579> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DMCForum-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
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