[DMCForum] Re: Rich's mixture, advance, etc
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[DMCForum] Re: Rich's mixture, advance, etc



Once upon a time in another Group pointed out that lean mixture burns
hotter than rich one and was thoroughly flamed... (didn't somebody in
New Jersey make wise crack about putting out hot fire with cool gasoline?)

Advance curve is definitely lower with mechanical weights only. My
throttle advances aren't that bad, but probably split difference. Top
flight ignition may be only way I get away with it. Of course, if
engine isn't pre-igniting, all you're losing is emissions and perhaps
some economy. In fact that's how I time a couple of my engines by ear
(don't ask me: Ford harmonic balancers are keyed so you'd think
there's only one way timing scale could fit on engine, but 2 --
perhaps 3, verdict still out on one -- have timing mark nowhere in
sight off plug #1). I move distributor clockwise until valves just
start to clatter under hard acceleration, then back off. Probably puts
me closer to TDC than spec. Fortunately my PRV is less than 17K and
pulley's never been off so I can use a light.

PRV fuel mixture screw moves in 1/4 to 1/8 increments. Little dab'll
do ya. Miss metering jets yet? At idle, an honest to goodness
"stutter" (vs "missing", "dragging", or "wandering" -- hopefully
people realize are distinct symptoms with different causes) is usually
a lean condition. On a carburetor you'd slowly open idle mixture
screw(s), not throttle linkage screw (which can be deceptive because
idle circuit closes as they open, moving you to fixed jets). Wonder
how idle speed motor factors into this? Could it mask a mixture
problem by essentially opening throttle plates (yes, I know it doesn't
actually touch them, but effect is the same). Might be an argument for
adjusting while idling off brass screws.

Re: 5th gear -- don't get too excited. Is definitely an overdrive
gear. Yields "highway lack of power". Good fuel economy, but
definitely not for passing, hills, etc.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> Hm. I did not take it apart. Cleaning it sounds like a good idea tho.
> 
> I've been dorking with the car since I got home today. I tested the
> RPM relay. There's nothing wrong with it. Just an idiot check.
> 
> I can see the timing advance when I rev it with the timing light. I
> disconnected the vacuum advance as Bill suggested. It takes a -lot-
> more to make it advance that way, which may indicate gooey bob-weights.
> 
> I again, tinkered with the CO screw. I tried to richen it first. That
> made matters worse. The engine seeked and wouldn't settle down no
> matter how many other things I adjusted. When I revved it, it would
> stutter and drag it's way up the RPM scale.
> 
> I started leaning it out, and I hade more power, consistently.
> However, something's not right now because it runs HOT, close to the
> safety margin when I drive it. It should be cooler with air flowing
> over the radiator. When it gets that hot, the power starts falling off
> again.
> 
> The first time I drove it that way, before it really heated up, I had
> "highway power". As soon as I stopped to turn around, I lost a lot
of it.
> 
> The car is saying something...I'm not sure what though.
> 
> --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx>
wrote:
> > Did you dismatle and clean up the bob-weights in the distributor?
They 
> > can get "gluey" and cause the symptoms you describe. Very common to
> have 
> > a car that's sat for some time, run fine till you give it a good
blast, 
> > then when you come back to it after it's cooled, it runs like a
bag of 
> > poo. That's what happenned to #2292 - read all about it at 
> > www.ourdelorean.co.uk
> > 
> > Martin
> > 
> > cruznmd wrote:
> > 
> > >I came home and ate some chow. Around 9 pm I decided I wanted to run 
> > >it again to make damn sure I fixed things. Instead, the car was 
> > >totally feeble, cold and hot. When revving, it seemed to be missing 
> > >on a cylinder, or starving for fuel, I'm not sure which.
> > >  
> > >



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