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Thanks for the replies guys.  The pin thing I found out is the Brake Booster adjusting rod.  It had to be adjusted by a mechanic after he did some work on my car years ago and I can't remember if it was time I had my clutch replaced or what, but the Brake Booster adjusting rod caused the calipers to seize up.

Both of my front calipers can be seized up no tighter than they are right now.  At first when I tried to bleed the front calipers after reinstalling them, there was no fluid at all coming out of the bleed screws.  Then I went back and pumped the brake pedal to the floor repeatedly until I was sure the system was correctly pressurized, and did the order bleeding again.  This time when I got to the front brakes, I had fluid and air coming out of the bleed screws and properly bleed them.  Now I find that my front calipers are seized up and even after starting the car up and checking, the front calipers can be seized no harder than they are now.  Also, I painted the upper most part of the cylinder above the 0 ring groove with POR15, but have since sanded most of the paint away to where the piston doesn't bind with the 0 ring out. If it were problems with the pistons sticking in the cylinders, wouldn't at least one pad out of 4 be a little loose??  That is what kind of makes me think that it's something now besides the caliper pistons that is seizing them up.  If the brake booster rod is out of adjustment, would it cause all four calipers  to seize up or just the front calipers? 

VIN #5781
On Wednesday, April 16, 2014 1:38 PM, Nick Kemp <nkemp1165@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
What he may be referring to is the piston needing to be depressed.  This is usually the case when disks and or pads are replaced and the calipers are reused.  The pistons need to be pushed back in to get it all to fit.  The only thought is on the pins that the calipers slide on can be greased with brake appropriate grease (High temp grease).

Tom wrote , ----On 4/16/2014 12:21 PM ---------------------------:
Since I don’t see any replies yet, so I’ll be the first one to chime in.
Mike, I have never heard of any “pin” that needs to be depressed. I can’t even think of any pin anywhere that might need to be depressed. There is absolutely no reason for new or rebuilt calipers to seize unless there is something wrong with them.
I can’t think of any reason why your brakes would seize while replacing the clutch. Those are separate systems and one does not affect the other.
Brake calipers seize when not used for a long time and when the brake fluid isn’t changed – corrosion forms around the pistons and they seize. Again, there’s no magic pin. The brake system on our cars is very simple and there are no special tricks needed.
Just make sure you bleed the system correctly and don’t worry about it.
One area that might need some adjustment is the automatic adjusters for the parking brake. Still, there is no pin and the brakes will not seize. If you do not move the adjuster there might not be enough room for new parking brake pads to fit on the rotor.
Do you have the shop manual?
Good luck!

Greetings from Poland!
Tom Niemczewski
Vin 6149 plus 2418, 3633, 5030, 16473, 17086
Google earth: 52°25'17.66"N, 21° 1'58.40"E
Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2014 7:58 PM

Can anyone tell me if there are any "adjustments" that need to be made when installing brake calipers??  I have just rebuilt my front brake calipers and am ready to reinstall them.   It's been a while but I vaguely remember something about a "pin" mechanism somewhere that needed to be depressed when doing brake or clutch work, else the brake calipers would seize.  I had my clutch replaced years ago and somehow the brakes got seized up from the work and I remember telling the mechanic about the "pin" thiing that needed to be depressed?  I forget the details now.  Sorry not much to go on, but I am fairly certain that when I reinstall my front calipers they will immediately seize up without the "pin" step being followed?



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