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If the plunger is moving freely now and all injectors spray a nice pattern and are even I can see two possibilities.
One, there is a huge vacuum leak and incoming air chooses the path of least resistance, hence the metering flap will not move at all. You have to check all vacuum connection paying special attention to the one on the underside of the intake manifold. This is the one that goes to the idle speed motor. It's hard to reach being underneath the intake manifold but is the largest and probably the easiest one to dislodge. If this hose is off it will create a vacuum leak large enough to completely bypass the metering plate. Been there, done that.
Two, the metering plate doesn't move a whole lot when cranking or at idle. You can barely see the movement. Even at full throttle the plate doesn't move all the way down... The movement is very slight. It's possible that it is actually moving but you don't notice it expecting a much larger movement. In that case your mixture adjustment is probably way off and you're not getting enough fuel. In your previous posts you have mentioned that you did try leaning out the mixture. You will have to readjust it now. Keep in mind that this is a VERY sensitive adjustment! And I mean VERY SENSITIVE! When monitoring the lambda cycle with a dwell meter a quarter of a turn will take you all the way from way too lean to way too rich. I've heard/read a lot of comments saying that you should go half of a turn at a time but that is wrong. A quarter of a turn is more than the lambda system can compensate for. I would say that if you are at the lowest limit of the system and turn the screw a quarter of a turn you will actually overshoot and go over the highest limit. If you want to move your mixture by 10% on the dwell meter you don't actually turn the screw, you just exert some pressure on the allen key and that is enough. Let me say this again - it is VERY sensitive.
IF and only IF you are absolutely sure that you don't have any vacuum leaks you can start adjusting the mixture. Remember to plug the hole after each and every adjustment. It has to be blocked for the mixture to be correct. If it's not covered it is considered a vacuum leak.
Here's what I would do to get the engine running. Oh, you definitely need a dwell meter connected to the lambda circuit. Without it you can get the engine running but you will not be able to get the mixture right. You will probably get it outside of the capability of the lambda system to compensate or you might get bad RPM hunting...
Connect your dwell meter. Turn the screw a quarter of a turn towards rich. Plug the hole! Crank the engine watching the dwell meter. If it doesn't start do another quarter turn. The dwell meter will tell you if the system is even trying to adjust the mixture. If the needle stays in the middle of the range it is not even trying to adjust because the mixture is too far off. Keep going and at some point you'll see the needle start moving to one side and the engine should start or at least try to start. At this point you should move the adjustment screw NO more that 1/10 of a turn at a time. Remember that you can't really move the screw with the engine running. By doing so you create a vacuum leak and when inserting the key you actually move the metering flap down. Make sure your battery is fully charged!
Keep in mind that with the engine cold the O2 sensor might not respond at first. Once you get the engine running the sensor will heat up and you'll start getting some readings other than the constant 50%.
Once you get the engine running and it is running fairly well you can let it warm up. You do the final adjustment with the engine at operating temperature. Here's how to do the final adjustment.
With the engine at operating temperature raise the RPM to about 2000-2500 for about 20-30 seconds. Let it return to idle and watch the dwell meter. At idle it should swing between about 45 and 55% full scale. I mention full scale because dwell meters usually go up to 90% so the middle point will read 45% instead of 50%. If your dwell scale goes to 90% then you should see the correct swing will be between 40 and 50% INDICATED which is 45 to 55% actual. Remember that the longer the engine is at idle the further from the middle the needle might move. This is because of spark plug fouling and O2 sensor cooling. Raise the idle again for 20 seconds to get accurate reading. BTW, as you raise the idle you will see the dwell swing getting faster and smaller. At about 2500 RPM it will swing no more than 5% very quickly. It might move off of 50% but that is ok.
If you move the mixture outside of the lambda system range the needle will return to 50% steady reading. Go back 1/10 of a turn and watch the needle swing. It has to move like a pendulum back and forth.
With some practice you can do small adjustments without shutting the engine off. Just make sure you don't press down with the allen key or you'll kill the engine.
Ok, I think this post is long enough for now ;). Do the above and report your findings. Don't skip any steps and make sure you have no vacuum leaks.
You can contact me directly if you need more help with the adjustments. I've done it so many times I can almost do it with my eyes closed ;)
PS. I will send you PM about the rear window glass. Thanks.

Greetings from Poland!
Tom Niemczewski
Vin 6149 plus 2418, 3633, 5030, 16473, 17086
Google earth: 52°25'17.66"N, 21° 1'58.40"E

Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 4:18 AM

Okay, here’s the latest on the starting problems I have been having.
As previously noted, the plunger was stuck in the fuel distributor.  I was able to free it up with no damage to the unit.  After cleaning, It slid in and out very easily, so I commenced to putting everything back together.  Double checked and triple checked all connections.  Everything was where it should be.
I had cleaned and tested all the injectors-----all six were opening at 54 to 55 psi with good spray patterns and  all shut off at 49 to 50 psi.  All spark plugs were clean and gapped at .026.  The idle speed motor and the frequency valve were both humming.  The cold start valve was working as advertised.
Connected the battery and cranked.  No fire at all.  Tried a couple more times, about 10 seconds each and still no fire.  Didn’t notice any fuel smell in the tailpipes so I pulled #3 and #6 plugs----both dry as a bone.  I then pulled the injectors for 3 and 6 and put the in catch cans.  Cranked again for about 10 seconds.  Injectors are not opening.  Pushed down on the air intake and got resistance but it went down as predicted.  When released, it came right back up.  I had the wife crank the engine while I watched the engine----much to my surprise, the air intake flapper never moved at all while cranking.  Why?  Any ideas out there?
So here’s my question-----How can I go from an over rich condition with a stuck plunger to a no gas at all when the only thing I changed was freeing up the plunger in the distributor.
Tom, I saw you post about needing a rear window.  Contact me offline.  I have a lead on one.
Mike   TPS    1630
Sent from Windows Mail


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