Re: [DML] fuel sending units
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Re: [DML] fuel sending units



I honestly like the idea of the valve on the baffle of the new Houston
fuel pump.  It does sound like a good idea but honestly my tuna can is
working fine.  You should never attempt to run a car bone dry.  You
are just asking for problems with your fuel pump if you make it a
habit to do this regularly.  Fuel pumps are designed to pump fuel, not
air.

In all honesty though, I have ran my Delorean until the low fuel lint
(DMCH $99 Fuel Sender) turned on (at least two seperate occasions) and
I had zero problems driving another 10 miles until I got to a gas
station.  This is with nothing more than a tuna fish can, my low
pressure fuel pump, and alternative fuel delivery system.

The rare times I have ran a low tank was due to me holding out until I
got to the next gas station selling ethanol free gas.

I even drove my car in the mountains once with my tuna fish can and
did fine.  Now I will admit though, I had enough sense to fill my tank
up with gas before I spent an hour driving to the top of that
mountain.  Honestly though, I probably could have made it up there
with a third of a tank of gas.

What amazes me is the reaction towards the new fuel pump assembly.
I've heard all sorts of criticism towards the tuna can and Hervey's
baffle yet DMCH is basically doing the same thing now, except their
new baffle has a valve instead of holes drilled in it.  The valve
isn't going to magically pull fuel from the back of the tank.

-Steve Rice
#16510



On Thu, May 10, 2012 at 12:45 PM, Martin Gutkowski
<martin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> I've opened up a tank before and been greeted by a baffle floating around attached to a square of fibreglass no longer stuck to the base of the tank.
>
> Martin
>
> Sent from my BlackBerry®
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Stephen Rice <stevedmc@xxxxxxxxx>
> Sender: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Thu, 10 May 2012 10:14:19
> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [DML] fuel sending units
>
> Heating up the stud sounds like it might work but you risk melting a
> hole in the tank.
>
> I would fix this with a new stud and a $10 fiberglass kit from
> Walmart.  Basically remove the tank (optional), clean it out really
> good, cut a hole in a sheet of fiberglass and secure the stud inside
> the tank with fiberglass and resin.  Let it dry and continue to secure
> it down with several layers of fiberglass and resin.
>
> I patched some holes in my Geo Metro gas tank about a month ago and
> its been doing fine.  As long as acetone doesn't get put in the thank
> there shouldnt be any issue.
>
> $2 for a stud and $10 for a fiberglass kit is a whole lot cheaper than
> a new tank.
>
> -Steve Rice
> #16510
>
> On Thu, May 10, 2012 at 10:02 AM, Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp@xxxxxxx> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> Drain the tank, clean it (no fumes), heat up the stud, press it back into the
>> tank.
>>
>> -Seems pretty good to me.  It's easy enough for an owner to do, but with an
>> hourly labor rate attached, it's probably cheaper for the owner to just have the
>> tank replaced when it's at a DMC shop.
>>
>> Jake Kamphoefner
>> 1063
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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