RE: [DML] Overheating, idle speed and stalling issues
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RE: [DML] Overheating, idle speed and stalling issues



Glenn, I'll be glad to go over your cars problems with you to help sole any
of the problems.
John Hervey
Evening would be better just let me know.





-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
jedimasterglenn
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 8:23 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Overheating, idle speed and stalling issues

Need some advice (or a DeLorean mechanic to open shop in MA!!) on what to
try next for what I think are 3 separate issues:

1.  I recently replaced my entire cooling system:  radiator, fans & fan
assembly, new water pump & thermostat, coolant bottle, and all the hoses
except the ones to the heater core (all of them...even the small ones under
the car).  I added a valve (petcock) near the radiator to make bleeding
easier.  I have NOT put in any kind of self-bleeder system.  I've bled the
system several times per the instructions here
(http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/08/burping-your-new-delorean-baby.htm
l).  But every time I bleed it, I find air.  I bleed it until there is no
air.  

After bleeding, if I start it cold and leave it running/idling, it stays
around 150F.  When driving, temp stays consistent around 180F, but if I come
to a stop for longer than a couple mins, the temp creeps up and will
continue past 220.  For example, I drove for an hour on back roads and
highway today and it ran around 180F the entire drive).  But when I got home
and left it idling in the driveway, the temp started to rise as described.
The new fans do work.  I jumped them to test and also heard them come on at
a bit less than 200F.  I noticed they shut off when the temp went above
220...which I suspect is air causing an issue.  And of course, I didn't let
the temp go any higher and shut the car off.  There are no coolant leaks
that I can see and the coolant level holds at where I fill it (about 1 inch
over the main opening in one of the new stainless tanks).  

I have the fans wired to pull the air through the radiator from front of the
car to back vs push...which I think is right...right?    

2.  Prior to the cooling system replacement and since, my idle speed has
been rough.  When I first start the car, the idle is good, hovering just
below 1000rpms.  But as it warms up, it starts to seek up and down between
800-1100rpms.  I've checked the air flow meter inlet & intake manifold seals
for leaks (I replaced all the manifold seals when I did the cooling system).
I think these are fine.  

3.  And rounding out my collection of headaches is what I like to call the
"downshift-stall mystery".  I have a manual transmission.  Again, this was
happening prior to the cooling system overhaul.  It doesn't happen
consistently, but when it does it's always when stepping on the clutch and
always at low speed, when downshifting(usually from 3rd to 2nd).  I step on
the clutch and the rpms abruptly drop to zero or close to it.  Before I have
time to shift gears, the car has stalled.  Sometimes it shifts fine and
other times it starts to stall but recovers.  It idles without stalling, but
as noted in #2, the idle seeks.  Only thing I've tried is adjusting the idle
speed microswitch, but to no avail.  I have the microswitch set so that the
throttle striker just barely trips the switch when the striker is at rest
position.     

Thanks,
Glenn
5391   



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