Re: [DML] Re: lRe Grounding Schematic.
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Re: [DML] Re: lRe Grounding Schematic.

In my case the fuse was fine it was the terminals and wires that were 
damaged. For whatever reason, the terminals were heat damaged and had 
melted the fuse block. Likely due to lack of good clean contact area 
resulting in the inability to carry the current load across the 
terminals. This higher resistance at the terminals caused the heat 
damage. Once the terminals were replaced with heavier wire (the factory 
wire is amazingly light gauge) and better contacts it did not solve the 
inadequate ground provided by the ground cluster above the gas pedal (on 
mine). When I added additional grounding from that point to the battery, 
the instrument panel was brighter and the volt meter went from reading 
below normal to normal. Also since then I have had much better 
performance from the fuel pump. I don't have the periodic bucking nor 
the periodic dying. (knock on stainless).

It may be the case that not everyone benefits from the improved ground 
buss. For me the improved ground bus was worth the time and energy to 
install. And thanks to Bill for sharing his ideas about the ground.

I have an early vin 897

Buddy Smith wrote , ----On 3/22/2012 12:31 PM ---------------------------:
> On Thu, Mar 22, 2012 at 11:36 AM, content22207 
> <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx <>>wrote:
> > **
> >
> >
> >
> > 
> > *THAT* is where the instrument cluster is grounded (and the fuel pump,
> > among other things). It is an unfortunate design because it places 
> too much
> > demand on a single ground wire. Non other than Rob Grady himself told me
> > that is what melts Fuse #7 (remember: DC electrons flow from negative to
> > positive -- Ben Franklin got it backwards). If your grounds are 
> inadequate,
> > it's the positive side that heats up.
> >
> >
> Hi Bill,
> That is not how it works. Yes, electrons flow from negative to positive,
> but that has nothing to do with a fuse heating up and/or melting.
> The fuse heats up because the load on the circuit is more than what it's
> supposed to handle. As you put more load on a fuse, it's resistance
> increases, which causes it to heat up. At some point, the fuse is supposed
> to blow.
> If you run it at just the right amount of current though, it'll get hot
> without blowing, which is what happens to the #7 fuse. That's why 
> replacing
> that fuse with a larger capacity fuse solves the heat/fire problem, 
> without
> compromising safety.
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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