Re: [DML] Tune-up
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Re: [DML] Tune-up



I'm willing to experiment with spark plugs so what is the best plug to use for daily driving without carbon buildup and the need of high octane fuel??

Rob - at the time of the "melt down", I was probably using stock resistor with 8mm wires (I am using 8.5mm now as a correction to my first post that said 8mm) and perhaps regular plugs, I cannot remember exactly what I was using but that is my guess. I do remember that the coil was just laying around from a previous car that I sold so I said "hmm, why not try it out?" and put it in the car when it would not even start in the rain. I have since upgraded the resistor, wires and plugs without touching the coil. I also had to replace the cap/rotor since they were no longer functional. I checked the cap and rotor now and they seem to not have much wear on them at all.

It would seem incredible that the wires would go bad in such little time with no indication and no handling of the wires (I understand they are liable to go bad with incorrect removal or installation of them). If the wires are going to go bad every few years then I'm going back to cheap stock instead of spending upwards of $100 every few years or deal with warranty. Remember my 1950 Buick - 60 year old spark wires and they are fine, how is it the DeLorean goes through them so quick [if the wires are the case].

I know that the white powder indicates corrosion, but I can never catch the wells with water in them whether I check them after driving, before driving; heavy rain or garden hose to engine - never full of water.

BTW zapping passengers - seems like I may some new ideas on what to use the dummy switches in the center console for now ;) -----Dani B.

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, <rob@...> wrote:
>
> Dani,
> 
>  
> 
> Did you replace the ignition wires and dist. cap after the coil fried your
> rotor? If the rotor melted what do you think the "blaster coil" did to your
> wires and cap? Sounds to me it was working as advertised and blasted the s-t
> out of them too! You can count me as a non-fan of high performance ignition
> parts for the PVR V6. The stock components are by far the most trouble free
> IMHO. In my experience a miss in rainy weather that goes away when dry
> almost always involves faulty ignition wires. Under the circumstances I'm
> surprised the wires don't give you a visual clue but I'd guess your problem
> is there regardless of how old or new they are. If the dist. cap is leaning
> like the "Tower of Pisa" then there's another suspect. "Blaster coil"
> strikes again with more voltage you can ever harness. I'm surprised it
> doesn't electrocute testy passengers too! Heh.maybe their working on that as
> an option. Where can I get one?
> 
>  
> 
> Rob Grady,
> 
>  
> 
> P.J.Grady Inc.
> 
>  
> 
>   _____  
> 
> From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
> stainlessilusion
> Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 4:42 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Tune-up
> 
>  
> 
>   
> 
> Guys; I am working on my D a little since I have a rough running engine, and
> am curious what the original coil has for output voltage. I'm looking at
> John's 25,000 volt Bosch coil [as an upgrade?] since I doubt the stock one
> has that much punch to it. I have +4 plugs that are a little old but few
> miles and are still in good shape; also Johns 8mm wires and upgraded
> resistor. I once used the blaster coil with my setup but I remember having
> problems with it - I believe it was melted distributor rotor but can't
> remember correctly. Nonetheless, with what I have as far as plugs, wires and
> resister; which coil should I be going after? My engine runs like garbage
> when it rains, and when it is dry it sputters at stops from time to time and
> just doesn't feel "right". Thanks guys -----Dani B. in FL!
> 
> 
> 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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> 06:31:00
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




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