[DML] Re: Wolfhead wheel (stainless re-graining)
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[DML] Re: Wolfhead wheel (stainless re-graining)

All of your questions don't really mean all that much. The end result is more about your technique (pressure, speed, etc) than the grit, width, etc. Don't get so hung up on a machine. The job can be done by hand, it just takes a lot longer. The narrower wheel is necessary to get into tight places and curves. The graining was put into the metal when it was flat and after forming the panels and installing on the car they went over it again to remove any marks. I regrained a car using an Eastwood flexible shaft with a rubber expander wheel and a scotch-brite belt. I still went over it afterwards with a piece of 80# by hand to smooth it out. You only have to regrain to remove any deep scratches. If there are minor scratches they can be removed with a blending (scotch-brite) pad. You will notice after regraining (or sanding) the panel will appear "brighter" then the adjoining panel. It will dull down or you can just keep doing the whole car. Be careful around the rub rail aka side guard strips. You do NOT want to sand it. You may have to remove it to avoid damaging it or you can cover it with masking tape. You can also use masking tape as a guide to help keep you straight so you don't start curving the grain. That's a big temptation, you must avoid moving in an arc, you have to maintain straight lines. Especially on curves in the panels. When I use sandpaper or a blending pad on the flat surfaces I use a block of wood to keep the pressure equal. Be careful on the hood to avoid using too much pressure or you will have a "X" pattern from the fiberglass underneath. It will take time and patience to learn proper technique. Go slow at first and as you gain confidence you can tackle deeper scratches.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Travis Graham <tgraham@...> wrote:
> I'm about to dive into stainless steel re-graining.  I'm now armed  
> with a 1000 RPM pneumatic drill and a beater RF fender to practice  
> on.  All I need is a Wolfhead wheel.  For those of you who have  
> experience with these (or even an old Vonnegut wheel), could you help  
> me fill in a blank or two?
> 1) What grit abrasive matches the factory grain? I've read where  
> others have used 60 and 80 grit, but I've seen no consensus between  
> these two.
> 2) What slashing pattern for the (aluminum oxide) abrasive is best:  
> 1/4 or 1/8 inch?
> 3) What width wheel to get: 1, 1.5, or 2 inch?  I'd assume 2 inches is  
> a better choice since it covers more surface area... unless there a  
> compelling reason to choose a narrower wheel?
> I know from talking to G&P machinery that some combinations of the  
> above may not be made, but I have too many variables to figure out the  
> rest without some trial and error.  Any insight would be much- 
> appreciated!
> Many thanks!
> Travis


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