[DML] Re: stage II (Faster Cap & Rotor Changes)

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I'm just no fan of the crossover pipe. Not only does it hobble
performance, it renders so much of the engine inaccesible. More than
just the ignition distributor is accesible with it out of the way:
clutch slave cylinder, heater core shutoff valve, heater core takeoff
barb, heater core bleeder tee, and of course everything in the Valley
of Death. Without a crossover pipe you can not only change vacuum
lines and thermal switches with the intake manifold still in place,
you can even reach in all the way to the back of the water pump (can't
see it, but you can feel it for water leaks or whatever). 

If an owner insists on keeping the crossover pipe, I would at least
recommend replacing the carbon steel hardware with stainless steel for
easier removal. 

I ran dual exhaust with my K-Jet for a short time before I switched to
carburetion. Made a total believer out of me. When I changed my clutch
slave cylinder and upgraded the hydraulic line, the intake manifold
never went anywhere. Installation of the cylinder itself took
somewhere in the neighborhood of 5-10 minutes (its mounting bolts are
right at the edge of the bellhousing). I remember the line taking much
longer -- the bent tubing wasn't quite right as I recall. It's still
easier to bleed the clutch from above due to the angle of the bleeder
screw, but I definitely recommend installing it from underneath.

Of course each owner is free to do with his or her car as he or she
wishes.

FWIW: An owner prompted me to double check my cap & rotor. Sure
enough, the inserts are brass, not aluminum. I checked my plug gap
while I was out there: .040-.041 inches. I have absolutely no
predetonation issues, so that wider gap works well with my particular
timing and fuel mixture.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Tom Tait" <TTait@...> wrote:
>
> If one removes the W shaped air horn, disconnects the throttle linkage
> rod, and removes the two mounting bolts for the air/mix assembly, it can
> be slid forward several inches to give you better access to the cap and
> wires than that.  This will take about 10 minutes,  but save you a lot
> of time overall.
> 
>  
> 
> Also, replacing plugs and wires is a breeze if you install the SS
> braided fuel line kit.  OMG it makes it SO MUCH EASIER to get to the
> plugs, wires and injectors - you wouldn't believe it.  As nice as the
> kit might look, its real value is in making access as easy as any car
> you have ever worked on (except plug #4, which you still want to remove
> the idle speed motor to get to in order to swap the plug, but still...)
> 
>  
> 
> Tom
> 




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