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Always best to repair a wiring harness the way it was origionally
made. Keeps it looking origional and in this case will keep the splice
in a place it can be examined, by the alternator, not buried in the
wrapping of the harness. Try to get brown wire of the correct guage
and make your splices neat. Best is to crimp a connector, solder, then
heat shrink it. Afterwards wrap with tape and route away from heat.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, mike clemens <rmclemns@...> wrote:
> This seems like a really dumb question, but my
> research has not yielded any definitive answer, as to
> why it was designed this way.
> I'm working on Josh's car and decided to pull the
> electrical wire between the alternator and the binding
> post underneath the engine bay electrical cover. 
> Why??  Because it appeared the electrical tape
> wrapping this "wire" was melted badly in several
> places.
> This 'brown wire', according to the diagram, is
> actually three, 10 gauge wires, all connected together
> at both ends.  On Josh's car, two of the wires were
> melted pretty bad and covered over by the PO (a really
> ignorant PO) by layering on electrical tape.  Why they
> got so hot is not the nagging question, I think I know
> the answer to that one, the wires rubbed thru the
> insulation and touched the frame, causing lots of arcs
> and sparks.
> The question I have is:  To replace the wire is a
> given, but should I replace it with three 10 gauge
> wires again or can I just use a 4 gauge battery wire
> instead??  It seems really dumb to me to use three
> smaller wires when one bigger one should work just as
> well or better.  Maybe one of you electrical engineers
> could chime in and let me know why it was designed
> this way.
> Mike   TPS    1630
> Check out the hottest 2008 models today at Yahoo! Autos.
> http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html

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