[DML] Re: Trailing Arm Bolt questions

["David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

By removing the bolts holding the trailing arm to the rear hub carrier
on the driver's (left) side you can manuver the trailing arm to get
the bolt out. This does not give you increased room to undo the nut,
just room to get the bolt out once loosened. Of course this assumes
the bolt is not bent, in which case you can either cut it up into
pieces or remove the the mount on the frame and take it all out as a
unit. Taking the trailing arm and the frame mount out with the bolt
still in will be necessary if it is stuck in the trailing arm. Rare
but not unheard of. Taking the trans mount off does increase the
working room but is not required. It is not that big a deal anyway but
you have to support the weight. Loosen the TAB and rotate it. If it
won't rotate or when it does the trailing arm moves up and down the
bolt will not come out easily. Use a magic marker and write the # of
shims on the frame. If you do decide to loosen the trailing arm from
the rear hub you do not have to touch the brake line. It will bend
enough if you are careful. If you never had the car on an alignment
rack I would recomend you have a 4 wheel alignment done by a good shop
after you replace the TAB's. Cheap insurance for the wear on the rear
tires. Folow the directions as to the order of the washers and shims.
You can also refer to the Workshop Manual. Washers are not generally
substituted for shims. Shims have a side cut out so they can be
installed without removing the nut, you just loosen it enough to make
room to slip the shim in. BTW shims come in 2 sizes, thick and thin so
not only do you have to know the # of shims you have to know if they
are thick or thin. Or you can just measure the total thickness. Good
practice is to put the thin one in between the thick ones if you can
(and if you need to). Impossible to know if the bolt is not bent by
looking at it installed unless it is so bent as to be VERY noticable.
In such case it is usually also streteched so the shims would be loose
or missing. The rubber bushing will move some. If it is cut, split,
cracked, or hard you should replace it but they seem to be pretty
durable. If you suspect it, remove it for inspection after you get the
TAB out.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Kevin Heller <howdyhoho@...> wrote:
>
> Checked my trailing arm bolts the other day and I have
> a few questions. 
> 
> 1) I have an automatic, so the driver's side TAB is in
> a very tight space. I've read several of the
> "How-To's" on the main site as well as on DMCTalk so
> I'm familiar with the concept of freeing the trailing
> arm by removing the bolts on the wheel hub, presumably
> allowing some movement of the bolt so it can be
> removed. However, how exactly do you get a
> wratchet/wrench onto the TAB head with such little
> space such that you can hold the TAB steady and loosen
> the nut on its opposite end? Does the tranny need to
> be dropped/raised? My bolts are installed such that
> the head is towards the transmission (I believe most
> are like that.) 
> 
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