[DML] Re: Hot start problem
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[DML] Re: Hot start problem



Just because the car starts OK when cold does NOT mean the cold start
system is working properly. The real test of it would be when it is
cold, ie, below 30 degrees F. Other systems also operate when cold so
it could be a combination. For instance you could have a problem with
the Control Pressure Regulator or the wiring to it or the vacuum. The
bypass relay for the ballast resistor may not be working. The vacuum
advance system has a temperature sensitve valve to control vacuum for
the advance. MY point is that if you have a problem with the car
warming up there is no way to know which system is not operating
properly without troubleshooting each system individually. I can tell
you what commonly fails but it is just shooting from the hip without
testing things to KNOW what is going on. BTW just because you replaced
a part does not mean you can rule it out as a cause of a problem. It
could be bad, you could have installed it incorrectly, or possibly
damaged it during installation. When diagnosing a problem you have to
go where logic leads you. Keep a can of Ether handy the next time you
can't start the car. If it gets you going you can assume it is a fuel
related problem. If it does not then you can safely guess it is
ignition related. At least it narrows the diagnosis down a lot. Ether
is a strange substance. It puts people to sleep yet it gets motors
going?????
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757  



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, doctorDHD@... wrote:
>
>  
>  
> Dave, did you read my post. Hot start is an accumulator  / pressure
problem
> not a RPM relay problem.
> John
> 
> John -  somehow I thought that if the Hot  Start is a pressure
problem, it 
> could be overcome by running the fuel pump  longer before starting.
>  
> Dave T - My car starts well when cold ie overnight, every time,
would this  
> mean the cold start system is working OK?
>  
> Dick - I replaced the impulse coil as part of the process of fixing  my 
> ignition twitch.
>  
> I'll have to do some more diagnostic work-up if it happens again...
>  
> Thanks for the tips
>  
> Dave Delman
> D² & 6530 + 2700 ohms
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com.
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




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