Re: [DML] Re: Aligning Latch Pins
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Re: [DML] Re: Aligning Latch Pins



Bruce,

I've noticed this too.  When I first bought my car a couple of years ago the 
struts were long gone.  I bought new ones from a vendor and they both opened 
much better.  So much in fact the drivers side seemed to bounce on hot 
summer days.  I then adjusted the torsion bars so they both open nice and 
easy, gliding to the top on an average day, 70 degrees.  But I've also 
noticed when taking the struts off for storage that the doors will fall all 
the way down to the sill.  I've always figured this would mean less of a 
load on the roof structure since the T-bars are not as tight, so a good 
thing.  But maybe I'm putting too much load on the ball-studs because of 
this?  Any opinions anyone?

Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont
www.1561project.com


----- Original Message ----- 
From: delornut
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 4:13 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Aligning Latch Pins


I noticed in one of the links mentioned below that a preliminary test
for a proper torsion bar adjusmnet is to allow the door to gently
close without a strut installed. If the torsion bar keeps the door
between 2 to 6 inches from the sill with no strut installed it's
about right. My doors drop all the way to the sill with no lifting
tension what so ever from the torsion bars when no strut is
installed. When I installed new struts from one of the vendors the
doors rocketed up too hard. I tried struts from another vendor with
the same result. I haven't had to change the T bar adjustment for new
struts in years so I'm wondering if the current crop of struts have
more pressure than those of past years or if the above test might not
be a very accurate indication of the torsion bar adjustment setting.
Has anyone else experianced something similar with the current crop
of struts being offered?

Bruce Benson 




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