Re: [DML] Clutch Slipping

["Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

It's not only the factory or aftermaket adjustable linkage bar that 
can cause this. I recently installed a new clutch master (origin 
uncertain - owner brought it with him) that had a built-in adjuster 
right on the link rod. Nice idea, but it came out of the box with the 
rod set maybe 1/8" too long. This took all the slop out of the pedal 
and did not allow the relief valve to open. This caused the clutch to 
start slipping almost immediately. The fix was to shorten the link a 
bit, but it could easily have led to a mis-diagnosis of a bad clutch, 
at worst it could have caused the clutch to wear out quickly. 

So - if you happen to get one of the adjustable masters, be sure to 
check the adjustment, making sure that the cylinder is completely 
released when the pedal is all the way up. 

Wierd coincidence - on the same day I had the same problem on my 
daughter's Subaru. Same linkage design. And I'm not convinced that it 
didn't cost me a clutch job on that one. (BTW - on a Subaru you pull 
the engine to change the clutch - OW!)

Dave S

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Warren Wallingford <warren@...> wrote:
>
> That's a good point about the throwout bearing binding.  I haven't 
ever
> seen that, but it's a distinct possibility.  Another bug, now that I
> think about it, could be the odious adjustable link that the factory
> sold for a while to try and remedy the problems caused by the 
swelling
> of the hydraulic line between the master and slave.  If these are 
set
> too long, it can hold the release bearing hard against the fingers 
of
> the pressure plate, releasing the clutch slightly.  It would have 
the
> same effect as 'riding the clutch'.  Wear would be greatly 
accelerated
> and slipping would be a problem.









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