Re: [DML] 3 Brass Screws Part II
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Re: [DML] 3 Brass Screws Part II



Hi Alistair

If the three screws were backed off before, what you've done will reduce 
the amount of air available to the engine on cranking, but tickling the 
throttle will have the same effect. I've re-submitted my little guide to 
setting up the brass screws to Dave to put on the DMCnews site but here 
it is anyway - this might help but it sounds like you may not have 
connected up the blue/yellow wire to the starter. This feeds both the 
cold start injector and wires out half the ballast resistor for a hotter 
spark during cranking. (this is without checking my wiring diagram!). 
This has very little efffect on a hot engine.

-------------

Problems relating to stalling when the revs dip too low at idle:

This is where I get shot down in flames, but when I get a car with such 
a problem, I start playing with the "brass screws". Here's a little 
guide to setting these up that should cure your problem. It can't do any 
harm and if you're not happy, just re-seat them all back down gently.

1) Let your engine idle up to temperature

2) With everything OFF (radio, ac, blower, lights, everything) , back 
the rear two brass screws out by 2 turns each.

3) Back out the front one (that has a flat screw head) slowly and keep 
going until you hear the engine speed start to increase. At that point, 
screw it back in half a turn, such that the idlespeed is how it was before.

What we're doing here is getting the engine to a point where it needs a 
minimum amount of air to idle. As you let more air in via the brass 
screws, the idlespeed system will fight you and close off the valve. 
When you get to the point where the engine revs start to rise, the 
idlespeed valve is closed. We're putting the minimum air requirements 
through the brass screws and giving the idlespeed system more "headroom" 
for circumstances when it needs the most amount of air - electrical 
loading and cold start being the obvious.

This is how Renault set up their systems and as far as I can work out, 
it all comes down to production variation in the valve. I've seen cars 
where I couldn't back out the screw at all without increasing the 
idlespeed. Likewise, I've been able to cure problems like yours with 30 
seconds and an 11mm spanner.






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