RE: [DML] Cold Start Valve circuit
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RE: [DML] Cold Start Valve circuit

When you bypassed the TTS (Thermo Time Switch) were you cranking the engine while testing?  Under normal conditions, even when you bypass the TTS, the cold start valve will only get power when the starting is cranking since it gets power directly from the starter solenoid.  Use a voltmeter and make sure you get 12 volts at the red/white wire on the cold start valve connector (while cranking).  If you read no voltage then go down to the starter solenoid and measure the voltage directly from where the red/white wire connects, again while someone is cranking the car.  Be careful not to short anything out while down there!  If you still read no voltage, or low voltage, then your solenoid is on its way out.  If you read 12 volts at the connector while cranking, then the issue must be in the ground side of the circuit.  When you bypass the TTS make sure you're grounding the blue wire in the TTS connector.  Use a good solid wire as I have used cheapo paper clips to do this any they've melted.  If this causes the valve to spray then your TTS is probably dead.  You can test this by testing for continuity between the TTS connector and ground while the engine coolant is cold.
Good Luck,
Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont


From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx on behalf of Tom Tait
Sent: Wed 11/2/2005 6:15 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Cold Start Valve circuit

My cold start valve is not opening under normal cold start conditions -
no spray.

My cold start valve does not open when the thermo time switch is
bypassed and jumpered out - no spray.

The Cold Start valve sprays fine when I supply it with +12V and ground
directly at its connectors - perfect spray pattern.

Lets see if I have this right... 

It looks like ground runs from the hot start relay socket, through the
thermo switch, to one terminal, and the cold start valve using a
blue/black wire

The +12 is supplied from a white/red wire at the starter?

So, with the jumper installed I should first look for continuity from
ground to the terminal on the cold start valve which ties to the
blue/black wire, if that is good then I hook back up to the thermo time
switch and check again. 

I then look for +12 on the white/red wire while cranking?

In theory it sounds ok, but I think I'm a little off here - any help or



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