RE: [DML] Re: Zilla

["John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

*****  Moderator's Note  *****
The zilla discussion has just about run it's course.  I am 
not seeing much new information in the most recent posts.
Unless something new comes up, please consider the thread
closed.

Mike G  Moderator of the week
*****

Shain, 
As I said in an earlier post, The way mine works and how it works is an
analog unit. I don't need the more expensive electronics to do what I do
when your switching and handling the power. It's a very simple device that
splits the power between 2 relays to minimize the load and sends it to the
fans. I have never had an internal breakdown because Bosch relay's, made in
Germany as Mike pointed out I have to assume are good. Sealed nitrogen gas
relay's are great for some applications or if it's necessary for what you
are doing, I just don't have to do that. Now if were going to make the car a
submarine then I would re think it or if Jason's car had one on it and he
was going to rebuild it then I would just give him another one. 
I could raise the price very easy if people are worried that cheaper is not
as good, but that's not the case if you understand what I'm doing. 
I go by the KISS theory which a lot of people in engineering can't do that.
I know because I work with them for 25 years . 
The picture you're looking at on the site was one of the first units I came
out with and even thought you see 1/4" quick disconnects, they are all
soldered. I have been involved in electronics to long to know that a quick
disconnect over time won't hold up to the power demands.
The Fan Fix current design and constructions have been reviewed and approved
by an EE that understands cars and works with all the Glass epoxy PC Boards
and 555 chips, multi layer boards and surface mounted components that some
people are impressed with. He even mentioned several things he could do to
have more perks and I'm not saying they are bad, but they cost more, more
assembly time and more to go wrong. Again, I just went by the KISS. 
Maybe someday I'll make one that has more bells and whistles, but for now it
gets the job done and the price is right and my profit fare for the time
spent in building them. Then I give a life warranty. No big deal.
John

    

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
Shain
Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2005 9:39 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [DML] Re: Zilla

John,

Although I have been trying to stay out of a lot of this fan conversation as
it is spread to different areas,  I feel compelled to voice some of my
person thoughts.  You module is not of a totally bad design,  it also it not
my greatest in my opinion either.  As I glance over your web site,  you
explain how your unit works by saying, (must have changed you page), "cause
of the wiring".  Which doesn't really explain much to me.  I have been able
to explain feature by feature how it helps the orgional problems.  When I
was working on my unit I had talked to individual with 25 years of
experiance a few times, and he provided me with real world information on
what he wanted to see, from real world happens,  not some assumptions you
made.  I still do not understand how your unit fixes any problems.  I mean
yes there are 2 relays which is great because of failure,  but there not
even sealed (and we have seen how unsealed relays hold up in the orgional
lock module).  You seem to use all crimp on connectors, almost no electrical
components.  I believe a quality product should incorporate a little more
for $140.  Each module I sell has a production quality circuit boards,  real
electronics (go figure), all soldered connections, and a real method I could
explain to anyone how and why it helps the car out.  I believe if I grabbed
2 people at random, and showed them both our units opened,  they would see
mine as a quality production unit.  And David is right, you get what you pay
for, and yes any sophisticated electronic unit has a higher initial failure
then a few spade connectors and 2 relays.  Everyone has had a bad electronic
device in there time,  but once replaced it last for years.  This should not
be a battle over who built what better.  If Fanzilla was around I never
would have built my unit.  But they were not for me,  so we move on.  In
comparison to you I built a better mouse, with information from individuals
who have worked on the cars since they were new.  When Fanzillia's are back,
I'm sure my production will stop.  Lets just give all of this up,  you have
the market for the lower cost unit, and mine for the slighty more expensive.


-Shain

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
John Hervey
Sent: Monday, October 24, 2005 11:13 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [DML] Re: Zilla

David, 
>From what Tom is saying there should never be a failure if it is tested
properly and tested over many, many cars. Even thought the instructions say
works on stock wiring and you don't know the condition or if it's stock or
not. You plug it in and in a short while it fails for some reason.  Then, I
am hearing that the Zilla's never fail. Then you just said one failed.
Am I missing something. I have had 2 fail out of 200 and both are fuse
holders that failed, nothing else and in talking with the factory could have
been their manufacturing error. They are rated 30 amp and on a max of 15 amp
draw should have worked just fine. I'm looking at the Bussmann catalog and
black fuse holders are rated 20 amps. I'm a little confused over such a bad
product I build. Again, I know the Zilla has been around for a long time and
has a good track record, but everything as to start somewhere at sometime. 
So, let's look back in a year and see how the new Box is going to do.   
John Hervey

 
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