[DML] Re: Engine vacuum problems?
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[DML] Re: Engine vacuum problems?

sorry David but what do you mean by smear the silicone?

is this to grease the new o rings?

i am just about to do this job as i have a water leak and my engine 
only runs for 30 secs or so-i intend on changing all down there.
and cleaning/restoring the the lot.
if the pump is ok is it worth leaving? like if it ain't broke-don't 
fix it. Can't see the need to change a working pump even if original.
car has only 14000 miles and stored for 12 years.

i assume you copper grease all bolts? to make removal much easier

any advice would be helpfull like how do you clean the valley of 
death and not get anything down the holes??.
did someone say you use acetone?.
i've seen por 15 coated after but is this upto the job with the 
working engine temperature?.


UK doc 370

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx> 
> Yu have to kind of roll the intake into the valley making sure not 
> unseat the "O" rings. I then slide it around a little to smear the
> silicone and line up the bolt holes. Insert the bolts, snug them up
> and then torque them in a rotational pattern. I leave the ignition
> wires and injectors out and out of my way, it is easy enough to
> install them after installing the intake manifold. On a motor I
> recently did I had a vacuum leak at one of the "O" rings. I 
> it to the fact that I did not slide the intake around that time. It
> must not have competely sealed causing the vacuum leak. It drove me
> nuts till I found it and I did not like having to remove 
everything to
> fix it! I don't think you are going to warp the intake. The 
> Manual has the torque. To look for vacuum leaks I use a propane 
> with a short hose. Get the ones that are used for soldering pipes 
> take the nozzle off. Slip a short hose over the end. Now when you 
> the hose near the suspected leak open the valve for a moment. If 
> engine speed changes you are near it. You must be VERY careful. A
> stray spark from bad ignition wires will run your day.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "stainlessilusion" <5n-@xxxx> 
> >
> > The hose going to the booster is the one I'm removing in order 
> > hook up the gauge. You say make sure the intake is properly 
> > positioned, all I'm doing is resting the intake down and putting 
> > bolts in finger tight-and then torque them. Is there something 
> > missing? Which reminds me, is there a sequence for the intake? 
Is it 
> > possible for the intake to warp? I'm not sure how to make sure 
> > intake is sealing other then the starting spray method. Thanks 
> >

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