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The problem is that if you face the head too much, you throw the cam 
timing out and your timing cover bolts won't line up. If you're facing 
the heads because the heads have warped the result will be that the 
camshaft is no longer strait and this will die pretty quickly. Taking a 
couple of thou off to create a perfectly clean, flat surface for 
re-mating is okay. I've done it several times.

The argument about the chain tensionsers is nonsense, I know a PRV tuner 
who's taken over a mm off the surface to raise the compression. He used 
verniers to re-time the cams correctly, and added dished pistons, steel 
crank and high lift cams to raise things to 11:1 and gets 270+bhp from a 
carb'd 2664cc odd-fire.

Don't ask me "how do I go about doing this" please.... :-) It's easy if 
you have the cash.


>>From what i've read on some volvo forums about PRV's, you do NOT want 
>to have any amount of the head surface removed in any circumstance. 
>>From what i've come across in my research, it causes timing chain 
>problems as even the slightest change in the distance of the cams 
>from the crankshaft will push the chain tensioners to the limits of 
>their ability to keep proper tension on the chain.. You also have to 
>remember the timing cover bolts to both the block and the head, so 
>changing the tolerances between the block and head would likly mean 
>the timing cover wouldn't fit quite right after you torqued the heads 
>Granted, i've never actually rebuilt any of these engines myself.. 
>but this is what my research has told me when looking in to what it 
>will take to rebuild the engine in my D
>VIN# 3209

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