Re: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)

["Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Dani,

I'm just jumping into this thread and haven't read any of the previous 
messages so I apologize if this has beren suggested before or if you've 
already checked these things out.

Have you already checked the fuel pressure both cold and warm? If you 
haven't, then you owe it to your sanity to get a K-Jet fuel pressure test 
set and find out. If they are correct don't throw money at a new CPR.

Black smoke means a rich mixture. Fuel related misfire is most often due to 
a lean condition, not an overly rich one. I would suspect ignition issues 
before fuel if you're blowing black smoke and still missing. Although you 
could have BOTH at the same time. For example, you could have a lean 
cylinder or two due to clogged injectors or a faulty fuel distributor. Those 
cylinders might misfire due to being too lean.

The lambda sensor might then attempt to compenasate for what it thinks is a 
lean-running motor (Remember, it sniffs the composite exhaust stream from 
all cylinders.) which would make it tend to drive the good cylinders in the 
motor rich. Those cylinders might then smoke.

If you haven't already, check all the plugs and "read" them. That may point 
you in the direction of something that is affecting just a few cylinders or 
something that is affecting the whole motor.

Also, when was the last time your lambda sensor was replaced? I think I 
would replace that if it is old, and if your motor has not been running 
right for a while, I might change it even if it isn't so old. If it is 
sooted up or otherwise "poisoned" (and that can happen if the car has run 
too rich for too long) then it might be dead. I'd check to see what the ECU 
is trying to do with you motoro  by placing a dwell meter on the frequency 
valve.

Blue smoke means oil burning.

It sounds like you need to do some trouble-shooting. Even though you say 
you've replaced most everything, I bet that there is still plenty of good 
money that could go chasing after the bad if you keep throwing parts at it. 
We've all been there before out of frustration, but in my experience it 
usually results in spending a lot of money needlessly and does not usually 
lead you to the answer faster than old-fashioned troubleshooting. Good luck!

-Joe Kuchan



>From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-@xxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
>Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2005 22:00:13 -0000
>
>Timed 13 degrees with CO set, Vac lines are correct, and I'm still
>having trouble. I just took out the intake to clean everything and
>rebuilt the mixture control unit to make sure there were no air leaks,
>there were some air leaks around #102772 which is now all fixed. I'm
>now confident that there are no air leaks at all. Anyway, when I start
>up the car it will misfire at anything over 2000-2500 RPM until engine
>is warm. Warm or not now- when accelerating from idle I get a quick
>burst of black or blueish smoke [depending on CO adjustment], and the
>engine will take a second to respond, as if the sudden increase in air
>is too much for it to handle. Also sounds like misfiring at high RPM
>range, over 5000; obviously this happens when the engine is warm, I
>could never get it to rev this high cold with these problems. I never
>had these problems when the engine was out of time, and even for the
>first few days when it was changed back to 13 and distributor fixed,
>now the running quality is deteriorating! CPR bad? fuel distributor? I
>will be replacing the CPR within the next few days, because it's
>likely to be original and I've replaced most everything else anyway,
>so why not I figure. Other then that, I'm out of ideas...As always,
>any help is greatly appreciated. -----Dani B. #5003
>




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