AW: [DML] High idle

["Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>]

Derek,
I am no sure if this proves it. If the idle motor doesn't vibrate and
make that noise, then the idle ECU might be defect.
But what difference would it make then  if you unplug the idle motor ?

The motor can't change the position/angle by itself, there is no spring or
so
installed that would close the valve or at least turn it back to a certain
position.

If the power stage of the ECU would be faulty and set the motor/valve
to fully open, then it would stay there no matter what you do with the
connector.

Of course when you touch the motor you also move it a bit. When the hoses
are
leaking this might change something.

Did you test the rest I asked you to ?

In another email from today I posted some links to pictures how to test
the idle motor.
+12V on the center contact/spade
Then connect one of the side contacts with ground. just for a second or so.
Then connect the other side with ground.
each time you change you should hear the motor turning to the other
direction.
All you hear is a "clack" then the valve is fully open or closed.

If it doesn't do that - the motor is faulty, maybe the bearing is rusted.

The coils can be measured, too. 14 Ohm between the center and each outer
contact.
To test the ECU it needs more electronical tools that most people won't have
at home.

Please check these points and give us a feedback. The whole thing
isn't complicated but most do have problems with it. I'm trying
to find out what problems people have with it to make a HowTo.

Elvis & 6548





> I unplugged the idle motor as videobob mentioned,
> and the car dropped from 1800-2000 rpms to 1200-1400.
> The idle motor does not make a whirring sound when the
> key is in the 'on' position with the engine off. Does
> this prove that the idle motor is the cause of my
> problems, or could it be something electrical not
> powering the motor properly?
>
> Thanks,
> -Derek

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