[DML] Re: Pulling an Automatic
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[DML] Re: Pulling an Automatic



And now for another oddball question - any reason NOT to bolt up a 
MANUAL flywheel and clutch assmbly and bellhousing, and start and run 
the engine without a transmission in place? (Other than another 
couple of hours of work!) This would seem to be a good way to make 
sure that the noise is NOT in the engine itself....

Dave S 

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxx> wrote:
> Adding to my own thread - the trans is out (with no assistance 
other 
> than the jack). I did have to loosen the crossover bolts to let it 
to 
> move up about 1/4" but otherwise it was pretty straightforward. 
> 
> Now for the fun part - I can't see any evidence of anything wrong. 
So 
> it looks like I'll swap in another converter and see if that fixes 
it 
> (original problem was a disturbing noise). If nothing else I'll get 
> pretty good at R&Ring these things. 
> 
> The only thing I noticed was that when I pulled the converter out, 
> the pump shaft stuck to it. On the "donor" transmission (thanks 
Marty 
> L!) it came apart like I would expect it to. 
> 
> The oil that ran out of the "donor" looks perfectly clear, so I'm 
> going to use it as the replacement. 
> 
> Dave S
> 
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxx> wrote:
> > This is an acedemic question at this point, but how do you turn 
the 
> > engine over to get to the converter bolts without removing the 
> > muffler (I have the muffler off so I could turn the engine over 
more
> >  quickly in quest of the mysterious noise). 
> > 
> > It also seems to me that it's prudent to get those two cooling 
> lines 
> > out of the way so the rear of the trans can drop.
> > 
> > I generally chain the trans to the jack so it shouldn't fall, but 
> > your right, dropping the converter would sure ruin your day. I 
have 
> > the OEM converter clamp to install on it as soon as it's 
separated. 
> > 
> > Dave
> > 
> > -- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx> 
> > wrote:
> > > You do not have to touch the exhaust system. You WILL have to 
> pull 
> > the
> > > starter and lift the engine to get to the cover on the bottom. 
> Drain
> > > as much fluid out of the pan and the cooler as you can to try 
to 
> > keep
> > > the mess to a minimum. Follow the Workshop Manual, it is pretty 
> > good.
> > > Take the plug off the firewall and cut all the strap ties. You 
can
> > > leave the shift computer and the switches and harness on and 
take 
> it
> > > all out together. Be careful that the torque converter doesn't 
get
> > > away from you. If it slips out of the bell housing as you take 
the
> > > trans off it will unbalance and the trans could fall off the 
> jack. 
> > Bad
> > > enough if the car is jacked up but working under a lift things 
can
> > > fall further. Don't forget the dipstick tube and the vacuum 
line. 
> > You
> > > should support the engine separately from below as you remove 
the
> > > trans. It helps to let it pitch down in the front but you don't 
> want
> > > it to go too far.
> > > David Teitelbaum
> > > vin 10757
> > > 
> > > 
> > > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxx> 
> wrote:
> > > > Anyone have any experience they care to share pulling an 
> > automatic 
> > > > trans and leaving the engine in the car? I've had it out of 
the 
> > car but 
> > > > at the time the engine came with it. 
> > > >






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