RE: [DML] struts

[<rob@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi Tom,

You bring up a very good and often overlooked point. The lift piston is just
1/3rd of a three part equation with all parts being roughly equal but very
different. The parts are as follows.

1. Lift Piston

2. Torsion Bar Initial Preload

3. Ambient Temperature (assuming you're outdoors)

It is difficult to do a valid comparison without the numbers one and two
being identical. For instance Rustproof VIN 1559 said (What's wrong with
using a real name?) that he set the torsion bar unaided pre-load (No piston)
to the "proper "hang" point". Who told him this? I would have told him 3" to
5" is the proper preload for any new piston. 20" should be sufficient to
catapult the person opening the door over to the passenger side of the car
not to mention damaging the roof support structure! Since he's conducting a
"test" it would be advisable to contact the supplier for proper set-up or
installation information. His doors would fly up with any new lift piston.
Each notch on a torsion bar equals about 5% of the total charge. Much more
than 2 notches, equal to two incremental adjustments, and you run the risk
of bending the roof support structure, which is why most lift pistons should
be changed every three to five years. I could talk about lift pistons and
DeLorean doors for hours as I consider it my "sub-specialty" but I have to
head out of town for the weekend so no more boring lecture for now.

Thank you,

Rob Grady
-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf of
Tom Watkins
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 7:46 AM
To: DMC News
Subject: [DML] struts

I guess the strut experiment cannot be done with any accuracy as I have been
using Grady struts for 6 years with none of the results you are getting.
 
I believe, that there is alot of guess work in the torsion bar adjustment
vs. strut power etc... Mine have been "tuned" for the Grady struts by Rob
for my climate (Maine). So perhaps this is why I am not seeing the same
thing  you are.  Again, I'm in Maine in moderate climate.  If I lived in
Florida or a Southern State would I see different results with Rob's struts?
Maybe...I dunno.......But with hotter temps comes torsion bar variances as
well....so it's all a crap shoot in my opinion.
 
I don't think we can get a real definitive on this other than people's
preference and opinion.  I found DMCH struts to be overpowered and slammed
at the top.....maybe if my torsion bars were adjusted to them they would be
fine....who's to say?  I don't do my own T-Bar adjust so I decided that it
wasn't worth experimenting with other struts.  I'm sure there are plenty of
owners using DMCH struts that are very pleased with them.
 
My opinion.......don't waste your time and money on this experiment as I
believe there are far too many variables from owner to owner that cannot be
taken into account.   A southern California car torsion bar & strut are
going to act ALOT different than mine here in the North East.  
 
 

		
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