[DML] Re: por 15

["Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I use it extensively. There are really about 4 products that you need 
to be aware of:
Black POR15 - VERY shiny black
Satin Black POR15 - more of a semi-gloss. More correct for things 
like the sway bar or suspension parts, but difficult to get to a 
uniform sheen. 
Gray POR15 - Good for frame repair, but not a perfect match to the 
DMC epoxy if that's what you are after. Very Shiny. I use this on the 
frame and then paint over it with Rustoleum Dark Machine Grey which 
is a very good match. For best results, put on the POR15, let it 
almost harden, then go over it with the Rustoleum. If you let it dry 
completely hard, the top coat won't stick as well. 

For best results you need to get the metal as clean as possible, then 
etch it with POR15 Metal Ready (aka phosporic acid) and rinse with 
water. At your local auto store ask for Met-L-Prep, it's the same 
stuff.  They say you can paint POR15 over VERY rusty metal, and you 
can, but it won't hold up nearly as well as over properly prepared 
metal. Sandblasting is best. 

As they say Read and Follow Label Directions. Do not be tempted to 
spray POR15 without a fresh-air respirator (NOT just a mask), the 
active ingredient is isocyanate, the which, in addition to being the 
active ingredient in Krazy Glue, is extremely poisonous. The 
similarity to the word "cyanide" is not a coincidence. 

I've had great luck  with this over the years, honestly it holds up 
as well or better than powdercoating, it's just not as pretty. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, kc <kcreason77@xxxx> wrote:
> 
> I'm looking to start some epozy clean-up work on my
> frame around the gas tank and have been looking over
> the por-15 site.
> It is confusing.
> There are quite a lot of different products, and quite
> a lot of different steps to do it.
> Which steps have people done, and what products of
> theirs are recommended?
> 
> -K








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