Re: [DML] Re: 3 post idle microswitch

[Martin Gutkowski <martin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

David Teitelbaum wrote:

>
> Obviously it has to be
>either the NO or the NC terminal (I wasn't going to make it so easy
>for him). If he took 5 minutes with a multi-meter he wouldn't have had
>to post the question in the first place. Sometimes giving the direct
>answer is not the "best" answer. Anyone working on a car (including
>Deloreans) ought to get to know a multi-meter and how to use it. 
>
David, I've disagreed with you on several small issues in the past, but 
what you just wrote there goes to the very root of my work too. I'm glad 
someone else said it! I'll tell you how it confused me once - I hadn't 
assembled the engine and only visually checked that the wires were 
connected as they should be. I'd never come across a 3-pin switch at the 
time. My quick test to see if the idle micro is working is to turn the 
ignition on and see if clicking the switch makes the vacuum solenoid 
behind the metering head clunk - two birds with one stone. 
Unfortunately, it was switching on when it should be switching off, and 
vice versa. As soon as I spotted the 3rd terminal, I did exactly that, a 
couple of beeps on the meter later and it was working fine.

While we're on the subject of the iddlsespeed valve: Exactly WHY does 
the idlespeed system need to know when to turn on? If it were hard-wired 
all the time, surely it would just close when the throttle wasn't at idle?

I've adjusted countless throttle plate screws,  throttle link rods and 
springs. it's amazing what 5 minutes spent on a car will do for a smooth 
idle :-)

Martin





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