Re: [DML] More problems found (was Piston rings + sleeves)

["stainlessilusion" <5n-@xxxxxxx>]

Tune up was done in May of 04 when I rebuild the entire frame and had
everything in pieces and the engine out of the car. As far as the idle
goes- The switch on the idle motor DOES activate when the car is
idling, It is just that whoever set this didn't make sure the whole
thing gets back to a fully closed position, it must be binding or have
little spring tension to return back-this I will check out today. When
idling, the Vacuum solenoid cuts the vacuum to the distributor-this I
already mentioned-it is working correctly. There is not supposed to be
ANY vacuum to the distributor during idle, once the throttle opens is
when the vac begins on the advance-this I already know and checked out
OK on my car. The vac advance on the distributor is brand new. For the
engine rebuilding part-it isn't because it is rough running (It's
the
running rough that made me want CARB instead of FI, but will see how
it goes with fixing the FI first), it is merely because I'm moving
from NY to CA and won't have any tools or a garage to perform a
rebuild out there. Introducing that ideas to others + researching the
history of the PRV, it looks like I can hold off on this and still
have a long lasting engine. Anyway, it is very possible I installed
the distributor wrong back when I did the tune-up (especially since I
was still highly affected with PCS from the 2 concussions a few months
earlier!!) and all along have had this as my problem. It doesn't
seem
as I have any vacuum leaks, I've already checked most of the lines and
the switch in the car doesn't hiss. Will inspect the distributor
today
and return with my findings (hopefully I can get to the compression
test today as well;)). THANKS GUYS I really appreciate the help!
-----Dani B. #5003


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxx>
wrote:
> 
> Did you check your ignition ? is it set to 13 degrees at idle ?
> 
> Your symptoms sound like mine when I installed the distributor
> wrong (one tooth off !) and had always about 30 degrees advance or
more. As
> long it was cold - it ran, but very bad.
> Once it heated up I hardly could keep it running.
> It took me two trys to be able to use the strobe while keeping
> the car running. I coudn't see any timing mark the first time.
> Second time I used my brain and saw, that it was way off.
> 
> 30 minutes later (this bit.. was still hot !!!) she ran like a
> charme.
> 
> So your vacuum advance is deactivated ? why ?
> Get that fixed - I mean compared to swapping piston rings this
> is like a children's birthday party or so.
> 
> For the idle - I don't think that the plates don't close completely
(ok,
> haven't seen it on your car yet) but if the switch isn't being
pushed, the
> idle ECU sets the idle PWM to a higher value - the port opens
wider.(No, the
> idle ECU is not deactivated when the switch isn't pushed, the switch
just
> reduces the desired idle speed.)
> 
> Maybe the spring is too weak (what I do not believe) or the switch
> became harder to push down or it is set incorrectly. Anyway - using
> two nuts under the switch will lift it up a few mm so that the screw
> pushes closer to the end of the switch(metal plate) where it needs
less
> force.
> Since I did this on mine the high idle problem is gone.
> 
> Wow, so many small problems and you wanted to rebuilt the engine
because of
> them ?
> 
> Elvis & 6548
> 
> 
> Yes so I had a chance to check out a few things on my DeLorean
today.
> While I didn't get a chance to check out the compression yet- This
is
> what I come up with- first of all, when I push on the adjustment
screw
> for the idle speed sensor switch, the car idles lower-meaning that
for
> some reason the plates arent closing to give a slower idle. Bad
> srpring? Secondly, when I take the vac line off of the distributor
> advance and hold the accelerator at say 3-4 thousand RPMs, it is
> smooth running, when I put the vac line back on, it is rough holding
> any RPM. There is no vacuum in this line when the car is
idling-which
> is normal. Lastly, the CPR-there are 2 vacuum lines going to this,
one
> of which uses a delay valve, but both meet at a "T" fitting. I
pulled
> the main line off the "T" where it comes from underneith the
manifold
> and there is no vacuum at all, is this supposed to be? I checked
this
> out while the engine was both cold and warm. The vacuum line coming
> from the back of the intake that goes to the barbs really isn't that
> powerful-I'm not sure if this is normal or not. What really gets me
is
> the distributor advance deactivated-why would it clear up the
running
> of the engine-something wrong inside the distributor? I've been
> driving this car for years with a bad advance unit and once I put
one
> in I've had this rough, vibrating running engine at any RPM. When
the
> engine is cold it runs extremely smooth, once warm is when I get all
> the problems and hard starting. Likely my ported vac switch is bad??
> Thanks for the help guys -----Dani B. #5003








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