Re: [DML] What engine oil should I use?

["therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxx>]

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Video Bob" <videobob@xxxx> wrote:
> I just had this long discussion with John Hervey at SpecialTauto tonight....
> We were discussing the "best" oil filters, etc, (which may be revealed in 
> another post)
> but we both came to the conclusion that you should use what is recommended 
> in the manual
> which is 20/50.
> The lower grades are for very low climates, and last I checked Alabama does 
> not keep an
> average temperature of 14F and below, which is the temperature you would use 
> a 10W grade in.
<SNIP>

What grade of oil one should use in an engine is determined by the engine's 
requirements, NOT the oils!

20w50 is good if you operate your DMC in low, triple diget temperaqtures, *and* you 
drive the car constantly hard. Otherwise, you'll start to notice more hard starting, 
longer warm-up times, and poor gas milage. In fact, the only time that I've NOT seen 
hard starting with 20w50 is when the temp stays within triple digets. Once it hits 90 
or lower, my car becomes more sluggish. Which is pretty much why this heavy of an 
oil is so far at the top of the scale. After all, it's not like your towing anything, and too 
heavy an oil can reduce cooling and lubrication properties.

A better choice that allows for more flexability is 15w40 for warmer climates, and 
10w40 for cooler/gentler driving. The engine will start MUCH easier, and will keep 
good gas milage. Depending upon how cold it gets in the winter, you may want/need 
to switch over to to 10w40 exclusivly. But that's a true YMMV thing.

Another great example of the engine dictating what oil to use is my mom's Ford 
Explorer. It's got the 4.0L OHV X motor. The manual dictates specificly that nothing 
other than 5w30 oil is to be used. Experimenting with 10w40 durring cold winter 
months, and hot summmer months, I can tell you that the thing performs bettter all 
around with the thinner oil. Better gas milage, and better performance on hills. So just 
as with any car, get the oil that the engine requires. If perhaps you need to place a 
vehicle onto a "Severe Duty" mantenance schedule, that's a better alternative. 
Comparing a 2-stroke motorcycle engine to a 4-stroke motor in a car doesn't even 
come close. Besides that, the Owner's Manual states that 10w40 is acceptable 
between 2-102F, not below 14F.

As for oil/gasoline additives, they're a total waste of money. Most of the time, rather 
than provide the miracles of car repair that they promise to perform, they just get 
caught in the oil filer, and get stuck there. Experimenting with CSL on a few cars to 
seal the nicks and groves in the cylinder walls did nothing more than part a fool from 
his money. No performance increse, no inproved gas milage, nothing. Take note that 
rather than a one-time repair that you could perform, these addatives demand that 
you become dependant upon their use...

Same thing with "Heavy Duty" oils. If you're really putting that much strain/continual 
use on your motor, it's time to switch to a "Severe Duty" maintenance schedule.

Besides that, if your motor is in such bad shape that it's lost compression with either 
the pistons, or the valves seating, it's time to either tear the motor down for a rebuild, 
get to the junkyard to get another engine one with less miles, or trade the car in.

As for oil filters, Purflux all the way. If you're in a bind, and need one in an 
emergency, you can use either a Mobil-1, or BOSCH filter. But sticking with what the 
manufacturer reccomends is your best bet.

Is the PRV a hot running engine because it's aluminum? I've never heard that one, but I 
doubt it. With a cooling system in good condition, it runs just fine. It can run even 
cooler if one installs a 3-layer radiator, but that's a cooling system thing, not an 
engine issue.

Trivial Note: I've found that with many people that own classic cars such as the 
DeLorean, they can tend to think that the motors are running too hot. Typicly this isn't 
an actual problem with their car, but one they percieve because their reading a gague. 
220 is OK, because antifreeze, and a closed system that prevents expansion changes 
the boiling properties. Modern cars also run at these same temperatures, but to quell 
unfounded concerns, you'll notice that the coolant temp gagues on modern cars no 
longer list the temperature. Hence why many people percive that cooling systems on 
newer cars are more "efficient".

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"